Buenos Aires prides itself on being a literary city, and its dozens of new and secondhand bookshops are a real pleasure; several already had salons and cafes when, just about everywhere else in the world, booksellers expected you to make your purchase and leave. A succession of shops selling books, and records - with an enormous selection of tango, jazz, classical, folk and rock - are strung along Avenida Corrientes between Avenida 9 de Julio and Avenida Callao. Others are along the stretch of Florida north of Avenida Cordoba, together with lots of other interesting shops, many of them in covered arcades or galerias . Contemporary art , including some intriguing landscapes and "gaucho art", is on sale at the scores of smart galleries - or galerias de arte - that throng Retiro. More galleries are scattered across Recoleta, with several along Avenida Alvear, but anyone looking for colonial paintings and antiques, along with Evita or Gardel memorabilia and other curios, should head for Plaza Dorrego and its colourful flea-market.

The city's markets , along with some of the casas de provincia , are also where you'll find handicrafts and artesania , sometimes at lower prices than at the specialized craft centres or ferias . Crafts may seem alarmingly expensive to anyone used to Peruvian or Bolivian prices, but remember that you are getting beautiful, unique pieces of ceramics or wooden masks or woollens made of alpaca wool at far better value than the mass-produced alternatives. Other typically Argentine goods include mate paraphernalia, polo wear, wine and world-class leatherware. Or take a jar or two of dulce de leche away with you to satisfy cravings.