Barracuda , Muelle TurA­stico. Champagne and centolla on board this sturdy launch. Shut your eyes, dress up (warm) and think of Monaco. Daily 7.30-10.30pm.

Casa TA­a , 12 de Octubre and Karukinka (tel 02901/421273). Cheap snacks from $2, from an old Ushuaia favourite.

El Nono , Gob. Deloqui 429 (tel 02901/423265). Local fast food in unfussy and friendly diner, serving giant hamburgers and snacks, but also a bargain menA? del dA­a for $5 with soft drink.

El Turco , San MartA­n 1440 (tel 02901/424711). Sizeable, hearty portions of pizza, home-made pastaand meat dishes. Excellent $6.50 lunch menu; good-humoured service. Closed Sunday lunchtime.

Ideal , San MartA­n 393 (tel 02901/437860). Housed in one of Ushuaia's more venerable buildings, the Ideal seves king crab thermidor for $16; grilled trout is a more modest $10. Out of season, it serves a value-for-money tenedor libre (mid-March to Nov Mon-Fri; $7).

Las Hayas , in Las Hayas Resort Hotel . Serves haute cuisine but at haute prices (starters from $10; main courses from $18).

La Rueda , San MartA­n 193. One of the town centre's best options for carnivores, serving a full parrillada for $12.

Maximega , San MartA­n 131. A shop that sells everything from crossbows to a steak sandwich, and useful for snacks. Open round the clock.

TA­a Elvira , MaipA? 349 (tel 02901/424725). Fine selection of fresh seafood, excellent mussels and a delicious merluza negra a la Marquery (black hake in a seafood sauce). Main courses from $10. Has a good list of Argentian wines.

Volver , MaipA? 37 (tel 02901/423977). An attractive building on the seafront, with intimate ambience and tango. Try the steaming pescado en papillote (fish baked in foil in a tomato and cheese sauce) for $15, a centolla provenA§al or one of their pastas. Closed Mon lunch.