Banks and exchanges There are ATMs at most banks. Try Banco Tierra del Fuego, San MartA­n 952, or Banco de la NaciA?n, San MartA­n 190, which offer the best rates for all types of foreign cash. There's a casa de cambio at San MartA­n 877 (daily till 8pm; higher commissions for changing travellers' cheques at weekends) and a Western Union office at Gob. Paz 921 (tel 02901/436683). All Patagonia, Juana Fadul 26 (tel 02901/433622, fax 430707) is the American Express representative.

Bookshop Antorcha, San MartA­n 1154; World's End, San MartA­n 798 and 903.

Car rental Dollar, San MartA­n 955 (tel & fax 02901/432134); Localiza, San MartA­n 1222 (tel & fax 02901/430739); Seven, San MartA­n 802 (tel 02901/437604); Visita, MaipA? 13 (tel & fax 02901/435181). Many companies do not permit you to take your rental car out of the Argentine part of the island, though Visita will for a surcharge. Either way, you should reserve two weeks in advance in the summer and note that roads are fairly reliable from October to early May; outside this period, carry snowchains and drive with caution.

Consulate Chilean, JainA©n 50 (tel 02901/430909 or 430910).

Hospital 12 de Octubre and Malvinas Argentinas (tel 02901/422950). Emergencies tel 107.

Internet Foto SantamarA­a, San MartA­n 419 (send emails free; 9am-9pm); Locutorio del Sur, Laserre 124 ($1.50 for 15min).

Laundry Laverap Los Tres Angeles, Rosa 139.

Pharmacy Andina, San MartA­n 638. Open 24hr (tel 02901/423431).

Police Emergencies tel 101.

Post office San MartA­n and Godoy (Mon-Fri 9am-4pm).

Taxis AsociaciA?n de Taxis, MaipA? and Lasserre (tel 02901/435995 or 422500); Julio DomA­nguez is a recommended driver (taxi #199; tel 02901/421077).

Telephone Locutorio del Sur, Laserre 124 (8am-midnight).

Travel agencies All Patagonia, Juana Fadul 26 (tel 02901/433622, fax 430707) and Turismo de Campo, 25 de Mayo 70 (tel 02901/437329, fax 432419), for tours to the national park and flights over the Beagle Channel plus general flights and services; Canal, Rivadavia 82 (tel & fax 02901/437395) for 4WD trip to Lago Fagnano. For trips to Harberton and on the Beagle Channel, go to the Muelle TurA­stico and book direct.