Bay Kebabs, cnr Jonson and Lawson streets. Generous falafel rolls and gourmet kebabs are the thing to have here. Eat sitting on the stools inside, or take away. Daily 10am until late.

The Beach CafA© , Clarkes Beach (tel 02/6685 7598). A good place for breakfast after a morning stroll, open from 7.30am. Serves eclectic dinner choices in the summer.

Byron Thai , 32 Lawson St (tel 02/6685 8453). Excellent Thai restaurant with a palm-garden dining area. Loads of choice for vegetarians. Moderate prices. Licensed. Daily from 5.30pm.

The Byronian , 58 Jonson St. This cafA©, frequented by scribbling locals, has a lively atmosphere with lots of chat over good coffee. An attractive front courtyard next to a green park. Early, good-value breakfasts. BYO. Daily 7.30am-4pm.

CafA© D.O.C. , Middleton St. Far from the madding crowds in a local bit of town, this great cafA© is the best in the centre for huge bowls of muesli with fruit and other breakfasty things. Open daily.

Cocomangas , 32 Jonson St (tel 02/6685 8493). Philippines-inspired restaurant which turns into a dance spot with theme nights after dark (Mon is 1970s night). There's an impressive wine list. Mon-Sat 5pm-late.

Earth 'n' Sea Pizzas , cnr Lawson and Jonson streets. A favourite place to eat in Byron. Toppings are unusual and imaginative: try "Mullumbimby Madness", with mushrooms, of course. Generous and affordable pasta too, or there's a $10 all-you-can-eat special on Wed nights. BYO and licensed. Daily from 5.30pm.

Fast Eddys Juice Bar , Jonson St. A scrumptious entirely vegetarian sandwich menu, plus delicious smoothies, freshly-squeezed juices and sweet things.

Fins , at the Beach Hotel , cnr Jonson and Bay streets (tel 02/6685 5029). A hugely popular and very pricey brasserie with an extensive people-watching verandah overlooking the ocean. Mainly fish and vegetarian dishes, with Moroccan and Southern European twists. Booking advised.

Fresh , 7 Johnson St. A recommended and very funky place to try oriental salads, excellent slices and juices or simply to hang out over a coffee. Evening meals are a delight.

Misaki Byron , 11 Fletcher St (tel 02/6685 7966). An excellent Japanese restaurant with minimalist design in a pleasant brick courtyard, serving everything from sushi to noodles. Expensive, but BYO; bookings required. Tues-Sat 6pm-late, plus Wed-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm.

Oh! Delhi , Bay Centre Arcade, upstairs, 6 Lawson St (tel 02/6685 6251). Byron's best curry house and takeaway. BYO and licensed. Nightly dinner, with live Indian music and belly-dancing Thurs, Fri & Sat.

The Piggery Supernatural Food , Arts Factory, Skinners Shoot Rd (tel 02/6685 5833). Don't be fooled by the name - this is a popular vegetarian place in a vast setting, retaining the open rafters of the building's early days as - ironically - a meatworks. Cheap and candlelit. BYO.

Switch , Childe St, next to Belongil Beach House . Another great oceanfront place for breakfast, lunch and dinner, though the sea view is behind beachfront bush. There are outside tables, and frequent avant-garde spoken word, cinema and music nights. BYO. Daily 8am-9pm.

Thai Noodle Bar , 24 Jonson St. Moderately priced fresh noodles wok-fried; you select the fresh ingredients. Also Malaysian-style laksa (noodle soup). Good selection of vegetarian dishes. Small bar-style eating area, but primarily a takeaway place. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm.

Toscani's Ristorante , cnr Jonson and Marvell streets (tel 02/6685 7320). A sophisticated, multi-award-winning Italian restaurant in an architecturally innovative building. Doubles as a cafA©, with every imaginable kind of Italian coffee. Expensive, though there are coffee and cake specials. Licensed. Live music on Wed. Open noon-midnight; closed Tues.