Accommodation can be hard to come by in the ski season, when everything, especially the motels, is booked up pretty early, but the rest of the year you shouldn't have too many problems. Good options include the inexpensive and central Royal Hotel , on the corner of Lambie and Sharp streets (tel 02/6552 2132; $35-50): built in 1858, it has loads of character - many of the rooms have French windows opening onto the huge balcony. The family-run Bunkhouse Motel , 28 Soho St (tel 02/6452 2983; rooms $35-50, dorms under $20), is a guesthouse-style backpackers' with dorms and lots of en-suite singles. The good-value Swiss Motel , 34 Massie St (tel 02/6452 1950; $35-50), also has holiday apartments on offer ($70-90) - there are plenty of other motels nearby, and a great value B&B, the Alpine Country Guesthouse (tel 02/6452 1414; $35-50), just next door. Snowtels Caravan Park , Snowy Mountains Highway (tel 02/6452 1828; apartments $50-90, cabins $35-70, on-site vans $35-50), with a tennis court and communal kitchen, is probably the best of the campsites.

Cooma's not really a foodie sort of town. The best place to eat is the licensed Sharp Food , 122 Sharp St, a lovely cosy place with outdoor dining in a pleasant courtyard out the back, serving delicious soups and sandwiches. More banal fare can be found at Grumpys , 112 Sharp St, and inexpensive pub meals are available at the bistro of the Australian Hotel , across the road at no. 137.