Accommodation in the national park itself is limited to campsites , some of which have hot showers, electric barbecues and fireplaces (note that wood is not supplied, and while plenty of places sell it along the way, there's a fine for collecting it in the park), and Balor Hut , an eight-bunk hut adjacent to the Breadknife. Bookings aren't necessary for any of the sites, but you may need to book the hut; mattresses are not provided, and bookings and the key are available from the Visitor Information Centre. Anyone planning to stay in the park will need to bring provisions. Between the park and Coonabarabran, the Warrumbungles Mountain Motel & Cabins on Timor Road, 19km from town (tel 02/6842 1832, fax 6842 2944, www.warrumbungles.lisp.com.au ; rooms $50-70, cabins $35-50), is set in bushland on the Castlereagh River. Rooms (BYO linen) have extra bunks and kitchens, so are good for families or small groups; there's also a small saltwater pool and a playing field. Also along Timor Road (16km from town), nestled under Bulleamble Mountain, is the Tibuc farm (tel 02/6842 1740, www.babs.com.au/tibuc ; $70-90), where self-contained cabins vary from posh to extremely basic. There are reductions for longer stays and B&B is available; advise upon booking if you're not bringing your own linen. There are plenty of alternatives in town: on John Street you'll find the All Travellers Motor Inn (tel 02/6842 1133, fax 6842 2505; $50-115), with air-conditioning and disabled-accessible rooms, or the excellent Imperial Hotel (tel 02/6842 1023; $20-35) which has a guest lounge, kitchenette, very reasonable singles and a huge verandah with tables and armchairs for warm spring nights. Along the Newell Highway you'll find the pleasant and well-equipped Castlereagh Village Holiday Units (tel 02/6842 1706, www.skybusiness.com/castlereagh ; $35-50) and on the Oxley, the shady John Oxley Caravan Park (tel 02/6842 1635; cabins $35-50, on-site vans $20-35).

Good places to eat in town include the wonderful Woop Woop , which has excellent, modern cuisine in a cosy room of exposed brick and iron girders, situated in an alleyway just off John Street. Other establishments are all on John Street itself: the bright and airy Jolly Cauli , at no. 30, offers a wide choice of dishes, delicious coffee and home-made cakes, and also serves as the town's internet cafe. The Lunch Box does inexpensive midday meals, the Imperial Hotel has the best counter meals, and the Golden Sea Dragon serves up reliable Chinese food.