As you'd expect, there are plenty of motels , with the majority on the Mitchell Highway (called Cobar St as it passes through town). A couple of the better-value ones are the Merino Motel , 65 Church St, 200m south of the city centre (tel 02/6882 4133; $50-70), and the budget Formule 1 (tel 02/6882 9211; $35-50) on Wyandra Street. Two old hotels downtown offer a bit more character: the Pastoral , 110 Tabralgar St (tel 02/6882 4219; $35-50), has a huge verandah and the cheapest rooms in town, or there's the Castlereagh Hotel , on the corner of Brisbane and Tabralgar streets (tel 02/6882 4877; $50-70). The most salubrious pub-hotel in town is the Amaroo Hotel , 81 Macquarie St (tel 02/6882 3533, fax 6884 2601; $70-90), which has renovated rooms and includes a cooked breakfast. Mayfair Cottage , 10 Baird St (tel 02/6882 5226; $90-115), is another good breakfast-included choice, and has a separate guest wing and a pool. The Dubbo YHA Hostel at 87 Brisbane St (tel 02/6882 0922; rooms $20-35, dorms under $20) is a cosy and welcoming family-run hostel with all rooms opening out on to outdoor seating decks. It's located within walking distance of the train station and the city centre, although the owner suggests taking a cab (tel 02/6882 1911) if you're arriving at night; the hostel also rent bikes ($6) and sell discounted zoo tickets. Campsites include Dubbo City Caravan Park on Whylandra Street, 2km west (tel 02/6882 4820, ddcp@dubbo.nsw.gov.au ; cabins $35-50, on-site vans $20-35), and Poplars Caravan Park , overlooking the river near the city centre on Lower Bultje Street (tel 02/6882 4067; cabins $35-50, on-site vans $20-35).

Dubbo has developed a bit of a cafe society . The self-consciously trendy Echidna Cafe at 177 Macquarie St (closed Sun & Mon), serves expensive contemporary Australian cuisine, but you can just drop in for an excellent coffee. The Grapevine Cafe , 144 Brisbane St, is more low-key - a relaxing place with a lovely, leafy courtyard, generous portions and breakfast served until noon at the weekend. For fresh bread and cakes, try the Village Hot Bake on Darling Street, by the railway station, a bustling bakery on two levels, also serving pies, fries and pizzas. If you crave the usual country-town fare, the Amaroo Hotel has the best bistro in Dubbo. There are also several restaurants at the bottom end of the main shopping area, including the recommended Darbar at 215 Macquarie St (tel 02/6884 4338), a tandoori house located in an old sandstone basement.