As throughout the region, however, the real attractions of Tenterfield lie outside town - undulating pastures and orchards, remnants of stands of eucalypt and rainforests, and rugged granite hills. Bald Rock , in a national park of the same name near the Queensland border, about 30km northeast of Tenterfield, is Australia's second-largest monolith, after Uluru, but a grey-granite version, 213m high. It can be climbed from its northeast side, and from the summit there are breathtaking panoramic views taking in both states. The excursion to Bald Rock fits in nicely with a visit to 210-metre-high Boonoo Boonoo Falls , set in another national park 32km north of Tenterfield. Access is via an unsealed road which can be a bit rough, but it's worth it (as long as you're not in a hire car), and there's a beautiful picnic area. The NPWS occasionally offers tours to both national parks: details are available from the Tenterfield Visitors Centre , New England Highway (Mon-Fri 9.30am-5pm, Sat 9.30am-4.30pm, Sun 9.30am-4pm; tel 02/6736 1082, www.tenterfield.com ). Perhaps the best way to climb the rock, however, is with Woollool Woollool Aboriginal Cultural Tours (book on 02/6736 3209, at www.northnet.com.au/~wwact or through visitors centre; $60); these are conducted by trained Aboriginal guides who, as well as escorting you up the monolith, will guide you through rock art sites, the falls and the ghost town of Boonoo Boonoo. The daily tours also include lessons in boomerang throwing, and free pick-ups and drop-offs from most accommodation in town.

Accommodation in Tenterfield includes the very cheap and central Commercial Hotel , 288 Rouse St (tel 02/6736 1027; under $20), which has a beer garden, shared cooking facilities and counter meals. Tenterfield YHA , 2 Manners St (tel 02/6736 1477; rooms $35-50, dorms under $20, cabins $35-50, on-site vans $20-35), is a lovely old wooden country hotel with a huge balcony, surrounded by parklands, and incorporating a caravan park and a small but well-equipped hostel.