Should you want to stay , there are dozens of motels, caravan parks and holiday apartments strung out along the highway, though there's even more choice over the border and you're probably better off continuing on to Surfers Paradise for the full Gold Coast experience - if that's what you're after. For something less crass, head 20km south down the Coast Road to Cabarita Beach near Bogangar where you'll find the VIP/Emu Park Backpackers Resort (tel 02/6676 1190, www.tropicalnsw.com.au/accommodation/
emuparklodge ; rooms $35-50, dorms under $20), a good hostel which has internet access, a swap library, laundry, free use of bikes and boards, surfing lessons and trips to Mount Warning; pay for two nights and you get the third free. The village has a pub and several eating places. Back in Tweed Heads itself, it's not hard to find something to eat : if the clubs don't appeal, head for oceanfront Marine Parade, where there's everything from takeaway pizza to Reggae's (tel 07/5599 0000) in the modern Calypso Plaza Resort .