You know where you are in CEDUNA : all the shops from camping store to supermarket are unambiguously named and a large signpost in the centre gives distances to everywhere between Perth and Port Augusta. The place is set to receive a moment of fame on December 4 2002, as it's one of the few settlements in Australia which will be totally blacked out by a major solar eclipse . Despite being small enough to walk around in twenty minutes, there's no lack of caravan parks , banks or service stations , with almost every brand of fuel on offer - some places even hand out discount cards for use at their pumps along the way. The Foreshore Van Park on South Terrace (tel 08/8625 2290; cabins $35-50) and the Community Hotel / Motel on O'Loughlin Terrace (tel 08/8625 2008 or free call 1800 655 300; $50-70) are right next to the jetty - you can fish for whiting on the turn of the high tide - and Ceduna Greenacres Backpackers is also not far from the sea at 12 Kuhlmann St (tel 08/8625 3811; under $20). Before your early morning start - it's a long way to anywhere - call in at the information centre on Poynton Street (Mon-Sat 9am-4.30pm; tel 08/8625 2780) and the NPWS on McKenzie Street (tel 08/8625 3144) for the latest on the Nullarbor's attractions. Incidentally, it almost never rains on the plain, and there's always a charge for water , which has to be distilled from underground reserves - so carry your own.