For budget accommodation , head for the Highview Lodge YHA Hostel , at 8 Blake St (tel 03/6362 2996; under $20), which is well-run and very clean, and rents out bikes. Set on a hill commanding unparalleled views of Quamby Bluff, the hostel is well signposted from the information centre - about a ten-minute walk - or Tigerline Coaches can drop you off. Another cheap option is the Bush Inn , at no. 7 Bass Highway (tel 03/6362 2365; under $20), which has good-value meals, a pool table and bands at weekends. A good motel on the outskirts of town is Mountain View Country Inn , 144 Emu Bay Rd (tel 03/6362 2633, fax 6362 3233; $90-115) - though it's on the main road, the row of units afford great views of the Western Tiers. Bonney's Farm , off Weetah Road, 4km northwest of Deloraine (tel 03/6362 2122, fax 6362 3566; $70-90), has a guesthouse (B&B) and self-contained two- or three-bed units. In the centre of town, the big old Deloraine Hotel , faces the river on the corner of Emu Bay Road (tel 03/6362 2022; B&B $50-70). Virtually next door, old-fashioned Bonney's Inn , 17 West Parade (tel & fax 03/6362 2974, www.bonneys-inn.com ; B&B $115 and upwards), has spacious suites suitable for families. For something very special, however, head for Calstock , on the Lake Highway just outside Deloraine (tel 03/6362 2642 fax 6362 2335, www.calstock.net ; B&B $150 and upwards); this exquisite guesthouse is run by a French couple who provide guests with French country-style meals created from local organic ingredients. Camping is available at the riverside Apex Caravan Park , 51 West Parade (tel 03/6362 2345). There are also several places to stay in Mole Creek , ranging from an excellent campsite (tel 03/6363 1150) to the congenial Mole Creek Guest House (tel 03/6363 1399; B&B $90-115) with its own restaurant and tourist information.

In Deloraine there are plenty of informal places to eat on the main street, Emu Bay Road. The best is the Delicatessen Coffee Shop at no. 36 (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat 9am-2pm), a combination of deli counter and tearoom. It's popular with locals, who enjoy the cakes and freshly baked baguettes with gourmet fillings; the most expensive dish is $8. The Emu Bay Brasserie at no. 21 (Tues-Sat 9am-2.30pm & dinner from 6pm; licensed; tel 03/6362 2067) has a casual cafA© atmosphere but serves upmarket meals. The best place in town for pub meals is the Deloraine Hotel ; you can eat in the dining room away from the noisy pokie machines.

The two major bus companies both make regular stops in Deloraine. Tasmanian Redline Coaches on its Launceston-Devonport service (2 daily), and its Launceston-Deloraine service (5 daily Mon-Fri, 2 daily Sat & Sun) which continues on to Mole Creek once daily on weekdays; and Tassie Link on its Launceston-Cradle Mountain service (May-Nov 1 daily Tues, Thurs, Sat; Dec-April 1 daily). The depot for Redline is the video shop by the roundabout at 29 West Church St (tel 03/6362 2046); Tassie Link are based at Sullivans Restaurant , at 17 West Parade.