As the third-oldest city in Australia, first settled in 1804, Launceston has hung on to disappointingly little of its elegant colonial Georgian architecture. Existing examples are mainly utilitarian structures such as merchant warehouses and mills, now converted into museums, galleries or tourist attractions. What the city does have in abundance, however, are many fine examples of colonial Victorian architecture : the 1870s and 1880s were prosperous times for Launceston, years of mineral exploration spurred on by the mainland goldrush. There was a boom in construction and a number of massive, dignified public buildings date from this period - though, unfortunately, in most cases the often florid facades were simply attached to Georgian structures.

Launceston's real attractions, though, are its natural assets. It's situated at the confluence of the narrow North Esk and South Esk rivers , with the breathtaking Cataract gorge only fifteen-minutes' walk from the centre, where the South Esk has carved its way through rock to reach the Tamar. Yachts and outboard motors ply the 50km of river, while beyond the western suburbs bush-covered hills fold back into the distance to Ben Lomond , an hour's drive away, and popular with Launceston's residents for winter skiing.