Budget accommodation is offered by Echuca Gardens YHA , 103 Mitchell St (tel 03/5480 6522 between 8-9.30am & 5-8pm, echuca@yhavic.org.au ; dorms under $20, rooms $90-150), a beautifully restored small wooden hostel set in tranquil gardens right on the edge of the Banyule Forest; the owners also offer country-style B&B accommodation. From here, it's a ten-minute walk through red gums to sandy river beaches where it's safe to swim on the inner bends. Those looking for work might try the somewhat institutional Nomads Oasis Backpackers , 410-424 High St (tel 03/5480 7866, nomads@river.net.au ; dorms under $20, rooms $35-50), which has air-conditioned dormitories and twins/doubles, a small kitchen and a courtyard. The owner has outdoor employment contacts and can provide transport to places of work. Moving upmarket, the Steam Packet Inn , on the corner of Leslie Street and Murray Esplanade (tel 03/5482 3411; $70-90), is a National Trust-listed motel in the heart of the old port area, while the Echuca Hotel , 571 High St (tel 03/5482 1087; $50-70), the town's first pub, still has some of its original features and offers simple accommodation in large pleasant rooms; it also offers motel units at the associated Campaspe Lodge (units $70-90). Upmarket B&B accommodation can be found in several pretty, historic homes: one of the nicest is The River Gallery Inn , 578 High St (tel & fax 03/5480 6902, inn@echuca.net.au ; $150 and upwards), where all the self-contained rooms have open fireplaces, and some have spas. The Echuca Caravan Park , Crofton St, Victoria Park (tel 03/5482 2157, hughd@mccmedia.com.au ; cabins $35-90, on-site vans $35-50), is a well-equipped caravan park right on the riverfront. There is even a thriving nudist resort , the River Valley Nudist Resort (tel 03/5482 6650, www.rivervalley.com.au ; $50-70), near Echuca in a bushland setting along the Goulburn River. Enquire at the tourist office about the many houseboats available to rent in the area.

With hungry Melburnians to feed, there's no shortage of decent eating places . Sutton's on Hare Street is an old-fashioned bakery, and Top of the Town on the High Street near the swimming pool does good-quality, freshly cooked fish and chips. Drovers Bakehouse on 513 High St near the Campaspe River sells a variety of breads baked in a wood-fired oven and has a sun deck which is a good spot for breakfast or lunch. The Bridge Hotel has a coffee shop, bar and a restaurant in the historic port area, and serves good coffee, cakes and desserts, light lunches and mainly traditional Aussie dishes in the restaurant. For excellent Italian food go to Giorgio's on the Port , 527 High St, which is open daily for dinner; or try Fiori , 554 High St. Oscar W's boasts a wonderful setting next to the old Echuca Wharf and serves food to match (daily 10am until late; book for dinner on 03/5482 5133). Ogilvie's Bar & Restaurant at the Philadelphia Motor Inn , 30 Ogilvie Ave (tel 03/5482 5700) also has a very good reputation. On the other end of the price scale, the American Hotel , on the corner of Hare and Heygarth streets, does good, plain counter meals.

Nightlife is better than you might expect; the small and friendly American Hotel is a good place to start with a drink. The Harvest Hotel , 183 Hare St, draws a youngish crowd and plays host to live bands at weekends, while Radcliffes has live jazz on Sunday afternoons. There's a Jazz, Food and Wine Weekend in mid-February. Campaspe Multiarts Centre is a brand new multimedia extravaganza, boasting three cinema screens and an auditorium.