|
Esperance
|
|
|
The town of
ESPERANCE
, which prospered briefly as a supply port during the heyday of the Eastern Goldfields, was revived after World War II when its poor soils were made fertile with the addition of missing trace elements. Now an established farming and holiday centre, the town lacks the charm promised by its name, but makes an ideal base from which to enjoy a westward exploration of WA's often spectacular and storm-washed southern coast.
Dempster Street is the town's main road and site of the arts-and-crafts vending cabins which comprise the Museum Village . Nearby, the actual museum (daily 1.30-4.30pm; $3), on James Street, is a surprisingly good repository of local memorabilia - diverse enough momentarily to engage most visitors. It's very proud of its Skylab display: the satellite disintegrated over Esperance in 1979 and NASA was reputedly fined $400 for littering. Besides a walk along the Norfolk pine-lined Esplanade and a round of mini-golf or go-karting, there's not much else to do in Esperance, so rent a bike or a car and head out along the 36-kilometre scenic loop west of town. Travelling clockwise, you'll come first to the Rotary Lookout (following a mean climb for cyclists), which overlooks the captivating seascape. You'll spot the windfarm , a modest experiment in alternative energy generation, on the way to Twilight Beach , an idyllic and sheltered spot, much prettier than the town's more exposed beaches. From here it's more windswept grandeur to Observation Point Lookout and a free (nudist) beach, before the road turns inland towards Pink Lake , sometimes coloured a lurid shade by salt-tolerant algae, whose marine cousins give the coastline its enchanting turquoise hue.
The approximately one hundred islands of the romantically named Archipelago of the Recherche, known as the
Bay of Isles
around Esperance, are chiefly occupied by colonies of seals, feral goats and multitudes of seabirds. Dolphins may also be seen offshore and southern right whales are commonly observed migrating to the Antarctic in spring. Mackenzies Island Cruises, 71 The Esplanade (tel 08/9071 5757), offers daily trips with the possibility of overnight stays on
Woody Island
(summer only), which is equipped with enough facilities to cast yourself away in comfort. Other useful information
for tourists (each section contains more specific sub-sections): |
|
Australia,
|