On Dickinson Street, Fine Woodcraft, an excellent craft gallery and restaurant, displays regional works, with a commendable dearth of wombat tea cosies and similar tack. A fun way of seeing the surrounding forest is to take the tram (tel 08/9776 1322) between Pemberton and Northcliffe (Tues, Thurs & Sat; 5hr 30min return, including photo stops). If your time is limited, settle for the shorter trip to Warren, which is actually the better half of the ride (2 daily; 1hr 45min return). The tram rattles along the old logging railway, over rustic timber bridges spanning tiny creeks, and visits the local beauty spot, the Cascades (also accessible by road) - a thoroughly enjoyable excursion. In summer there's also a steam train service up to Lyall Sidings, north of town.

The region's single most popular attraction is the Gloucester Tree (CALM fee), situated on a clearly signposted road 3km southeast of town. At 61m, it's the world's tallest fire-lookout tree and its platform is accessible by climbing a spiral of horizontal stakes. Only a quarter of those who visit the tree actually climb up to the platform - the climb itself is more satisfying than the actual view - and those who do can have their efforts validated by a certificate available at the tourist office in town. The countryside all around is crisscrossed with peaceful walking trails and enchanting forest drives cutting deep into the wonderful karri woodlands. Beedelup National Park , on the Vasse Highway 20km west of town, has a short walk to a suspension bridge over Beedelup Falls , while the drive through the native karri forests of the Warren National Park , 10km southwest of town, will leave you in awe of these huge trees flourishing in their natural environment. If you have time for only one such drive, make it this one.

As for accommodation , the basic YHA at Pimelea (tel 08/9776 1153, fax 9776 1819, yhapemberton@hotmail.com ; under $20), 10km northwest of town, has seen some improvements and offers free pick-ups from town as well as bike rental. You could also try Warren Lodge (tel 08/9776 1105; under $20), a similarly basic ex-millworkers' lodgings right in town by the bus stop. Otherwise, the surrounding countryside abounds in tranquil woodland retreats, such as Pump Hill Farm Cottages (tel & fax 08/9776 1379; $70-90), 2km west of town, or Karri Valley Hideaway Cottages (tel & fax 08/9776 2049; $70-90), 20km west. Campers can stay at the town's central caravan park (tel 08/9776 1300; on-site vans $35-50) or at any of the CALM-approved campsites in the surrounding forests. There are a couple of cafes in town but for trout or marron (freshwater crayfish), both local delicacies, try the restaurant at the Eagle Springs Trout Hatchery , signposted north of town.

Thirty kilometres south of Pemberton, NORTHCLIFFE is a small, untouristed logging town of little interest to passing visitors. Southwest of the town is the long spread of coastal heathland and inland dunes comprising the D'Entrecasteaux National Park . It's barely accessible, although Southern Forest Adventures in Northcliffe (tel 08/9776 1222) offers one- to five-day 4WD tours as well as a weekend package canoeing down to the park and returning by 4WD. Windy Harbour , 30km south of Northcliffe, is the only point between Augusta and Walpole where non-4WD vehicles can get to the ocean shore. There is a small break in the limestone cliffs here, allowing access to a couple of exposed white beaches and a basic campsite , usually occupied by fishermen.