Finding a comfortable, spotlessly clean and reasonably priced hotel is usually easy, though Joinville has become a popular conference centre, during which periods accommodation is scarce. In the city centre, on Rua Jeronimo Coelho near the local bus terminal, is the Ideal (tel 047/422-3660; $10-20) at no. 98, and the much nicer Principe (tel 047/422-8555; $10-20) at no. 27. Nearby is Joinville's priciest place to stay, the Tannenhof (tel 047/433-8011; $70-90) at Rua Visconde de Taunay 340, with all the features one expects of a large, luxury hotel. Smaller, as comfortable and with much more character is the Anthurium Parque Hotel, Rua Sao Jose 226 (tel 047/422-6299; $50-70), a curious building supposedly of "Norwegian-German" style, located in pretty grounds near the cathedral. Around the corner from here at Rua Ministro Calogeras 612 is the Germania (tel 047/433-9886; $35-50), which to all appearances is just another small modern tower block, but which has extremely comfortable rooms, helpful staff and very friendly owners.

Not surprisingly, German restaurants abound, but most are of the sausage, pig's knuckle, potato and sauerkraut level of sophistication. The Bierkeller, conveniently located at Rua XV de Novembro 497 (closed Mon), is typical, or try one of the many self-service restaurants in the Shopping Mueller, a large shopping centre next to the Hotel Tannenhof. If you're desperate for a decent meal, you'll have to go out to the suburbs (a $5 taxi ride) to the Choperia Sopp (closed Sun evening) at Rua Marechal Deodoro 640, the best restaurant in Joinville. The excellent menu, based on German cooking, is varied enough for most tastes and the beer is excellent. For afternoon tea , you'll get good cakes at the Cafeteria Brunkow at Rua IX de Marco 607; alternatively, all the upmarket hotels serve a good high tea ( cafe colonial).

There's a cultural institute in Joinville, the Instituto Cultural Brasil-Alemanha on Rua Princesa Isabel, near Rua Sergipe, and students congregate in the nearby bars in the evenings after classes. Since 1937, the Festa das Flores has been held for ten days during the second half of November, the height of the orchid season - flower shows, German folk dancing, music and food are the main attractions. Pride of place in the cultural calendar goes to the annual Festival Internacional de Danca , the largest event of its kind in Latin America. For twelve days around mid-January, dance companies from around the world descend on Joinville, attracting an audience from throughout Brazil. So strong is Joinville's association with dance, that in 1999 it was chosen by the Bolshoi as the location of its first ballet school outside Russia.