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Eating and drinking
 

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There are very few places in Manaus where you can sit down and enjoy any peace, and even the cafes and bars are too full to give you much elbow room. One advantage of the crowds is that there's street food everywhere: especially around the docks, the Mercado Municipal and in busy downtown locations like the Praca da Matriz, where a plate of rice and beans with a skewer of freshly grilled meat or fish costs well under $2. One traditional dish you should definitely try here is tacaca - a soup that consists essentially of yellow manioc root juice in a hot spicy dried-shrimp sauce. It's often mixed and served in traditional gourd bowls, cuias, and is usually sold in the late afternoons by tacacazeiras.

For your own food, there's a supermarket at the corner of Avenida Joaquim Nabuco and Avenida Sete de Setembro, and another towards the market on Rua Rocha dos Santos. The following restaurants are closed Sundays unless otherwise stated, and be warned that prices in Manaus are roughly double what you might find in the rest of the country.

Anavilhaus , Av. Joaquim Nabuco 498. One of the cheapest places in town for good cooked meals. It's a no-frills night dive stacked with beer crates, playing loud music all the time, but it serves excellent fish dishes - try the tucunare. Open daily.

Canto da Peixada , Rua Emilio Moreira 1677. Considered by many to be Manaus's best regional and river-fish restaurant, and therefore not cheap, but good value nonetheless.

Churrascaria Bufalo , Av. Joaquim Nabuco 628A. Excellent rodizio but expensive at $12 a head.

Fiorentina , Praca da Policia. Upmarket Italian restaurant - good food but it's expensive.

Floresteiro , Rua Dr Moreira, two doors down from Central Hotel. Basement place, strong on fish, and with good regional comida por kilo ($8 per kg) lunchtimes, and moderately priced a la carte evenings. Closed Sat evening as well as Sun.

Galo Carijo , Rua dos Andradas 536. Opposite the Hotel Dona Joana, this is a simple, inexpensive but excellent local fish restaurant and bar. Closed Sat evening.

Kaktus Churrascaria , Av. Getulio Vargas, 4 blocks up from Av. Sete de Setembro. Cheap and open Sun.

Lanche Alternativa , Rua Marques de Santa Cruz, by the Mercado Municipal. Grilled meat and beer accompanied by the biggest and loudest PA rig in Manaus. Open daily.

Mana's , Rua Dr Moreira 76. Churrascaria and peixaria which has great salads amongst its self-service comida por kilo -style lunches.

Mandarim , Av. Eduardo Ribeiro 650, at the corner of Rua 24 de Maio. Excellent and reasonably priced Chinese restaurant, with a comida por kilo system for lunch and a la carte evenings (6-10.30pm). Their chopa (sizzling platter) dishes are recommended.

Mister Kilo , Av. Sete de Setembro next to Krystal Hotel, first floor. Popular and friendly lunchtime comida por kilo joint.

O Naturalista , Rua Sete de Setembro 752, 2nd floor. A large, clean and enjoyable vegetarian restaurant one block east from the cathedral. Open Mon-Fri lunchtime.

Scarola Pizzaria , Rua Dez de Julho 739. Away from the action a little, this is a pleasant pizzaria, with a nice patio, good service and reasonable food.

Suzurau , Av. Boulevard Alvaro Maia 1683, Praca 14, 3km east of the city along Av. Sete de Setembro. This very good Japanese restaurant is the best of the three in Manaus. Closed Tues.

Xamego , block 7 of Getulio Vargas at the corner with Dez de Julho. Small, inexpensive restaurant which specializes in fish dishes but has a reasonably good and very wide-ranging menu.


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