Banks and exchange Banco do Brasil has branches at the airport (daily 10am-9pm), at Av. Dantas Barreto 541, at Av. Rio Branco 240 (4th floor), and on Rua Sete de Setembro in Boa Vista, all charging commission. You're much better off going to a casa de cambio or a travel agency: the Monaco agency at Praca Joaquim Nabuco 159 (tel 081/3224-4289) in Santo Antonio will change dollars or cheques free of charge. You'll also get reasonable rates in the seafront hotels in Boa Viagem. Exchange rates tend to drop around Carnaval time, with the influx of dollars from foreign tourists, so, if you can, delay changing large amounts until afterwards. Shopping centres have banks and money change facilities which stay open until 9pm Mon-Sat. The Bradesco bank on Conde de Boa Vista has an ATM which accepts most Visa cards. Don't at any time change money with people who approach you on the street.

Books New books at Livro 7, Rua Sete de Setembro 329, in the city centre, but few in English. Secondhand books (some in English) on corner of Av. Dantas Barreto and Rua Marques do Recife.

Car rental Hertz at the airport (tel 081/3800-8900) and at Av. Conselheiro Aguiar 4214, Boa Viagem (tel 081/3325-2907); Avis at the airport (tel 081/3800-8787) and next to the airport, at Av. Mascarenhas de Morais 5174 (tel 081/3326-5730).

Consulates UK, Av. Eng. Domingos Ferreira 4150, Boa Viagem (Mon-Fri 8-11.30am, Tues & Thurs also 2-4.30pm; tel 081/3325-0247); USA, Rua Goncalves Maia 163, Boa Vista (Mon-Fri 8am-5pm; tel 081/3421-2441).

Health matters Albert Sabin, Rua Senador Jose Henrique 141, Ilha do Leite (tel 081/3421-5411).

Music shops Disco 7, Rua Sete de Setembro, in a small alley next to the Livro 7 bookstore; small, but the best record shop for Brazilian music in the Northeast (tel 081/3222-5932).

Post office The main post office is the Correio building on Avenida Guararapes in Santo Antonio (Mon-Fri 8.30am-5.30pm). There is also a post office on Av. Marques de Olinda, on Recife island.

Taxis Disk Taxis Recife (tel 081/3424-5030) and Teletaxi (tel 081/3429-4242) are both safe, or you can just pick up a taxi from the ranks found on many prominent street corners all over town.

Telephones Inter-urban and international telephone offices are located at Rua Diario de Pernambuco 38, Rua do Hospicio 148, and Rua Bruno Velossa 200, Boa Viagem (all daily 6am-11pm). International calls can also be made direct with phone cards from phone kiosks throughout the city.

Travel and tour companies Among the best tour companies in and around Recife are Soltur, Rua Matias de Albuquerque 233 (tel 081/3424-1965); Karitas Turismo e Ecologia, Rua Ribeiro do Brito 1002, (tel 081/3466-5447); Crystal Tour, Rua Capitao Zuzinha 22 (tel 081/3462-4485); and, for flights and tickets, Flytour, Av. Rua Montevideu 260, Gracas (tel 081/3221-4265, www.flytour.com.br).