There are a number of good hotels opposite the RodoviA?ria. Both the Elite (under $10) and the SA?o Francisco ($10-20) are reasonable value. In the city centre overlooking the river is the luxury Luxor Hotel do PiauA­, PraA§a Mal. Deodoro 310 (tel 086/221-4911, fax 221-5171; $70-90), while cheaper places are nearby around PraA§a Saraiva. Mid-range hotels include the Sambaiba, Rua Gabriel Ferreira 230 (tel 086/222-4911; $20-35), the Teresina Palace, Rua Paissandu 1219 (tel 086/221-2770, fax 221-4476; $20-35), and the Royal Palace, Rua 13 de Maio 233 (tel & fax 086/221-7707; $20-35), all in the city centre.

Restaurants in the city are not especially cheap. Good regional food is served at Celsos, Rua Agelica 1059 (tel 086/232-2920), a short taxi ride away from the centre in the bairro of FA?tima. You'll find excellent seafood at CamarA?o de ElA­as, Av. Pedro Almeida 457, in the bairro of SA?o CristA?vA?o (tel 086/232-5025; closed Sun). Piauienses excel at meat: a good place to try the cabrito, young goat, deliciously tender and served either roasted over charcoal or ao leite de coco, stewed in coconut milk, is Asa Branca, Av. Frei Serafim 2037, in the centre, with live music (Thurs-Sat). If you're after a meat feast, the rodA­zio at Rio Poty, Av. Mal. Castelo Branco 616, is the place to go.

The city's nightlife lacks the focus of the coastal capitals, but there is life after dark. The bank of the Rio ParnaA­ba is the best place from which to enjoy the sunset. A kilometre or so south of the centre, along the riverfront road, is Prainha , a series of bars and restaurants built along the riverbank, shaded by planted trees: buses run there, but are very infrequent by late afternoon - use the taxis in Teresina, which are cheap.