Banks and exchange Travellers' cheques can be cashed at virtually any bank around town for a commission of two per cent. For credit-card cash advances, either the Cambodian Commercial Bank or the Foreign Trade Bank of Cambodia can assist. Most banks are open Mon-Fri 8.30am-3.30pm, and a few are open until 11.30am on Saturday. The best rates for changing dollars into riel can be found at the moneychangers in and around the central market.

Cambodian Commercial Bank, 26 Monivong Blvd (tel 023/426145); Canadia Bank, 265-269 Street 110 (tel 023/724672); First Commercial Bank, 263 Street 110 (tel 023/210026); First Overseas Bank, 20 Street 114 (tel 023/213023); Foreign Trade Bank of Cambodia, 26 Norodom Blvd (tel 023/724466); Standard Chartered Bank, 89 Norodom Blvd (tel 023/216685).

Western Union Money transfer is available at FCC and at Sampan Tour (48 Street 240).

Bicycle rental Capitol Guesthouse ; $1.

Bookshops The FCC stocks a wide range of English and French books, including novels and bestsellers, as well as books on Cambodia and Angkor. Monument Books (155 Monivong Blvd; tel 023/723020) has a large collection of new books. Second-hand books are sold at The London Book Centre (65 Street 240; tel 023/214258), which has over 5,000 titles in English, French and German.

Dentists Dr Leo Phiv, 74 Street 108 (tel 012/850311); European Dental Clinic, 195A Norodom Blvd (tel 023/362656). Both are English-speaking.

Embassies and consulates Australia, 11 Street 254 (tel 023/213470); Belgium, 1 Street 21 (tel 023/360877); Canada, 11 Street 254 (tel 023/213470); China, 256 Mao Tse Toung Blvd (tel 023/720922); France, 1 Monivong Blvd (tel 023/430020); Germany, 76 Street 214 (tel 023/216381); India, 777 Monivong Blvd (tel 023/210912); Indonesia, 90 Norodom Blvd (tel 023/216148); Japan, 75 Norodom Blvd (tel 023/217161); Laos, 15-17 Mao Tse Toung Blvd (tel 023/983632); Malaysia, 161 Street 51 (tel 023/216176); Poland, 767 Monivong Blvd (tel 023/720916); Russia, 213 Sothearos Blvd (tel 023/210931); Singapore, 92 Norodom Blvd (tel 023/360855); Thailand, 4 Monivong Blvd (tel 023/363869); UK, 27-29 Street 75 (tel 023/427124); USA, 27 Street 240 (tel 023/216436); Vietnam, 426 Monivong Blvd (tel 023/362531).

Hospitals and clinics For any travel-related illness, tests or vaccinations, head for AEA International/SOS Clinic at 161 Street 51 (tel 023/216911) or the Tropical & Traveller's Medical Clinic, 88 Street 108 (tel 023/366802). The Naga Medical Centre at 108 Sothearos Blvd (tel 011/811175) also has English and French-speaking doctors. The main hospital is Calmette Hospital, 3 Monivong Blvd (tel 023/426948).

Immigration department For visa extensions and other immigration queries, go to the Department of Immigration, 5 Street 200, near the Norodom Boulevard intersection. The office is open Mon-Fri 8-10.30am, 2.30-4.30pm.

Internet access Khmer Web, 150 Sihanouk Blvd (tel 012/846467), offers Internet access for $5 an hour, or a monthly email account for $14. Underneath the FCC, CafA© Asia, 365 Sisowath Quay (tel 023/217041), offers internet access by the hour for $5 7-10pm, or $6 at all other times. The cheapest place ($4/hour) is the Public Internet Centre at the LidA©e Khmer, 5 Street 53 (Mon-Sat 8am-6pm, Sun 9am-5pm; no phone), but there's often a wait for the terminals.

Motorbike rental New! New! Motorcycle Rentals at 417 Monivong Blvd (tel 012/855488) will let you loose on a clapped-out old Honda from $3 per day or a more impressive trials bike from $6 per day. Two doors up, Lucky! Lucky! Motorcycle Rentals (tel 023/212788) charges similar prices. It's worth paying the 300r to park in the many moto compounds around the city - thieves are rather partial to unattended Hondas.

Newspapers and magazines The FCC stocks a few international newspapers and magazines, but a wider selection can be found at the Hotel Sofitel Cambodiana, the Inter-Continental or Le Royale.

Pharmacies The Naga Pharmacy (Hong Kong Center, 108 Sothearos Blvd; tel 023/361225) offers English- and French-speaking pharmacists. Open daily 7am-8pm.

Post office The Main Post Office is east of Wat Phnom, at the corner of Street 102 and Street 13 (Ang Eng Street). It's open daily 6.30am-9pm, and the staff are helpful. Poste Restante pick-up is at the far left-hand counter. A PO Box service is also available.

Sports Taillal Fitness Center (53 Street 178; tel 023/215063) has a gym available to non-members for $5 per session, or two sessions for $6. The International Youth Club (Duan Penh Street, West of Wat Phnom, tel 023/722722) has a swimming pool, gym, squash, badminton and tennis courts. There are also two tennis courts at the Hotel Sofitel Cambodiana. At the Hotel Inter-Continental, the Clark Hatch Fitness Center (tel 023/424888) has a fully equipped gym with aerobics, sauna & pool access. The outdoor swimming pool at the Sharaton Hotel is free of charge if you're buying their drinks. If the heat doesn't deter you from a good run, the Hash House Harriers meet every Sunday afternoon, 2.45pm at the Railway Station, intersection of Monivong Boulevard and Street 184.

Supermarkets Bayon Supermarket, 135 Monivong Blvd (7am-7.30pm); Lucky Supermarket, 160 Sihanouk Blvd (8am-6.30pm); Pencil Supermarket, 15 Street 214 (7am-9pm); Thai Hout, 92 Monivong (7am-7.30pm).

Taxis Baileys Taxi Service, 8 Street 308 (tel 023/300808, mobile 012/853179) offers a 24-hour taxi service with experienced, reliable English-speaking drivers.

Telephone services International phone and fax services are available at the Main Post Office or any sizeable hotel. Public phones can only be used with a pre-paid phonecard, available at shops everywhere.

Travel agencies Diethelm Travel, 65 Street 240 (tel 023/219151), also new branch office at the FCC, 363 Sisowath Quay (tel 023/214059); Intra, 2-3 Street 118 (tel 023/428596); Mittapheap Travel & Tours, 262 Monivong Blvd (tel 023/216666); Transpeed Travel, 19 Street 106 (tel 023/723999).