To stock up if you're camping, use either the big Safeway supermarket at 318 Marten St and Elk (daily 9am-10pm), just off Banff Avenue a block down from Wolf Street, or the less frenetic Kellers (daily 7am-midnight), opposite the Whyte Museum at 122 Bear St on the corner of Lynx.

Aurora , 110 Banff Ave (tel 762-3343). Very popular bar and nightclub (cheap drinks) attracting a young crowd in the Clock Tower Village Mall; dancing nightly until 2am and live music, usually Friday and Saturday evenings.

Baker Creek Bistro , Baker Creek Chalets , Bow Valley Parkway (tel 522-2182). As a break from town it's definitely worth driving out here for a meal of innovative and well-cooked staples, like steaks and pastas, in a restaurant frequented by locals as well as tourists. The snug lounge bar is also nice for a drink, especially later in the year when the fire's lit. Moderate.

Balkan Village , 120 Banff Ave (tel 762-3454). Greek outlet, known for big portions of reasonable food and belly dancing on Tuesday in the winter to whip things up; in summer the place turns raucous on its own, with frequent impromptu navel displays from well-oiled customers. Service can be a trifle surly. Moderate.

Barbary Coast , upstairs at 119 Banff Ave (tel 762-4616). Excellent, if obvious, food - pizza, steaks, burgers and salads - at good prices: the restaurant is full of sporting memorabilia, and the separate popular bar at the front, open till 2am, also does food (with occasional live music).

Bistro , corner of Wolf and Bear next to the Lux Cinema (tel 762-8900). A cheaper sister restaurant of Le Beaujolais , this is a pleasantly calm place a block or so off Banff Ave where you can enjoy first-rate food in intimate surroundings.

Bumper's , 603 Banff Ave (tel 762-2622). A little out of the centre, but this excellent-value steakhouse - one of the town's busiest - still draws in Banff residents and visitors alike. There's a good lounge upstairs, a locals' favourite, for a drink before or after dinner.

Cilantro Mountain Cafe , Buffalo Mountain Lodge , Tunnel Mountain Rd (tel 762-2400). A good cafe-restaurant, with the usual North American fare, that's ideal if you're staying at the hostel or campsite and want a modest treat; has a nice outside terrace for the summer. Inexpensive.

Earl's , upstairs at the corner of Banff Ave and Wolf St (tel 762-4414). You can rarely go wrong at restaurants in this mid-priced Canada-wide chain. Lively, friendly service, plenty of room and consistently good food that is extraordinarily eclectic - everything from Thai to Italian influences.

Evelyn's , 201 Banff Ave, corner of Caribou (tel 762-0352). One of the best inexpensive places on the strip for breakfast; excellent range of coffees. A second, less busy outlet, Evelyn's Too , can be found next to the Lux Cinema at 229 Bear Ave.

Joe Btfspk's [sic] Diner , 221 Banff Ave (tel 762-5529). Tries too hard to evoke a period feel - red vinyl chairs and black-and-white floors - but does good, if slightly overpriced, food; often busy at peak times.

Le Beaujolais , 212 Banff Ave at Buffalo St (tel 762-2712). Known for almost twenty years as one of western Canada's better, smarter and more expensive restaurants. A choice of set-price menus between $40 and $66 help keep tabs on spending. Reservations recommended.

Melissa's , 218 Lynx St (tel 762-5511). Probably Banff's most popular daytime destination, set in an old log cabin: big breakfasts, superb mignon steaks, salads and burgers, plus a good upstairs bar, Mel's , for a leisurely drink, and a summer patio for food and beer in the sun. Recommended, particularly for lunch. Moderate.

Outa Bounds , 137 Banff Ave (tel 762-8434). Though Banff's other major bar and nightclub - along with Aurora - is a rather soulless basement bar, with food, pool, dancing and occasional music, it still manages, somehow, to draw in the crowds.

Rose and Crown , upstairs at 202 Banff Ave (tel 762-2121). Part of a chain, combining a moderately successful pub atmosphere (darts, mock-Victorian interior) with a family-oriented restaurant. Food is of the pub-lunch variety and later on you can shake a leg in the adjoining nightclub and disco - occasional live music.

St Jame's Gate , 205 Wolf St (tel 762-9355). It was only a matter of time before Banff got an Irish pub; hugely popular with locals and visitors alike.

Wild Bill's Legendary Saloon , upstairs at 203 Banff Ave (tel 762-0333). Serves good Tex-Mex and vegetarian food (family-oriented until 8pm); doubles as a lively bar with live bands (usually country) Wednesday to Sunday; pool hall and games room. Moderate.