Desperadoes , 1088 Olympic Way (tel 263-5343). This huge sports and "cowboy" bar supposedly has room for 3500 people; replacing Dusty's , a Calgary institution, the jury's still out on whether it will live up to its predecessor.

Kaos Jazz and Blues Bistro , 718-17th Ave (tel 228-9997). Best location in the city for jazz, with blues, acoustic and soul also on offer.

The King Edward Hotel , 438-9th Ave SE. Much-loved, down-at-heel location, with consistently good C&W and R&B bands. The Saturday jam session - the blues event of the city - is invariably packed.

Piq Niq CafA© , 811-1st St SW (tel 263-1650). This place isn't bad as a cafA©, but it really comes into its own Thursday to Saturday with good live jazz acts.

Ranchman's Steak House , 9615 Macleod Trail S (tel 253-1100). A classic honky-tonk and restaurant, known throughout Canada for the live, happening C&W. Free dance lessons at 7.30pm Monday to Thursday. Free admission before 8pm on Thursday. Closed Sunday.

Senor Frog's , 739-2nd Ave SW (tel 264-5100). Three blocks west of the Eau Claire Market. New and popular upbeat restaurant and club, with the club taking precedence Thursday to Saturday from 9pm.