fiogf49gjkf0d Of the hundred or so Canadian towns that claim to be "Salmon Capital of the World",
CAMPBELL RIVER
, 46km north of Courtenay, is probably the one that comes closest to justifying the boast. Fish and fishing dominate the place to a ludicrous degree, and you'll soon be heartily sick of pictures of grinning anglers holding impossibly huge chinook salmon. Massive shoals of these monsters are forced into the three-kilometre channel between the town and the mainland, making the job of catching them little more than a formality. The town grew to accommodate fishermen from the outset, centred on a hotel built in 1904 after word spread of the colossal fish that local Cape Mudge natives were able to pluck from the sea. Today about sixty percent of all visitors come to dangle a line in the water. Others come for the scuba diving, while for the casual visitor the place serves as the main road access to the wilds of Strathcona Provincial Park or an overnight stop en route for the morning departures of the MV
Uchuck III
from Gold River
.
If you want to
fish
, hundreds of shops and guides are on hand to help out and hire equipment. It'll cost about $20 a day for the full kit, and about $60 for a morning's guidance. Huge numbers of people, however, fish from the 200-metre
Discovery Pier
, Canada's first saltwater fishing pier.
Diving
rentals come more expensive; try Beaver Aquatics near the Quadra ferry dock in Discovery Bay Marina (tel 287-7652). If you merely want to know something about salmon before they end up on a plate, drop in on the
Quinsam Salmon Hatchery
, 5km west of town on the road to Gold River (daily 8am-4pm).
Campbell River's well-stocked
infocentre
is at 1235 Shopper's Row (daily 9am-6pm; tel 287-4636). Four Laidlaw
buses
run daily to Victoria, but there's only one, occasionally two, a day north to Port Hardy and towns en route. Airlines big and small also
fly
here, including Air BC, Central Mountain Air and Vancouver Island Air
. The
bus terminal
is on the corner of Cedar and 13th near the Royal Bank (tel 287-7151).
Accommodation
is no problem, with numerous motels, Campbell River being a resort first and foremost: try the
Super 8 Motel
, 340 S Island Hwy, on the main road south of town (tel 286-6622 or 1-800/800-8000; $80-100), or the carving-stuffed
Campbell River Lodge and Fishing Resort,
a kilometre north of the town centre at 1760 N Island Hwy (tel 287-7446 or 1-800/663-7212,
www.vquest.com/crlodge
; $80-100). You won't be able to escape the fishing clutter common to all hotels unless you head for a
B&B
. Contact the infocentre for listings, or try
Pier House B&B
, 670 Island Hwy (tel 287-2943,
pierhse@island.net
; $80-100), a three-room 1920s antique-filled heritage home in downtown right by the fishing pier. The place to
camp
locally lies 5km west of town at the
Parkside Campground
, 6301 Gold River Hwy (tel 830-1428; $20; May-Oct).
Cheap
places to eat
abound, mainly of the fast-food variety, and in the pricier restaurants there's no prize for spotting the main culinary emphasis. The best burger joint is
Del's Drive-In & Diner
, 1423 Island Hwy, a place with plenty of local colour. For beer and snacks try the
Royal Coachman
, 84 Dogwood St, popular with tourists and locals alike. For a
seafood
treat, head for the
Anchor Inn
, 261 Island Hwy (good views), or the
Gourmet by the Sea
on the main road about 15km south of town at Bennett's Point.
Other useful information
for tourists (each section contains more specific sub-sections):
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