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Tofino
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TOFINO
, most travellers' target base in the park, is showing the adverse effects of its ever-increasing tourist influx, but locals are keeping development to a minimum, clearly realizing they have a vested interest in preserving the salty, waterfront charm that brings people here in the first place. Crowning a narrow spit, the village is bounded on three sides by tree-covered islands and water, gracing it with magnificent views and plenty of what the tourist literature refers to as "aquaculture". As a service centre it fulfils most functions, offering food, accommodation and a wide variety of boat and sea-plane tours, most of which have a
whale-watching
or fishing angle or provide a means to get out to
islands and hot springs
close by
. Sleepy in off-season, the place erupts into a commercial frenzy during the summer (hippies, surfer types and easy-going family groups being the most visible visitors), though there's little to do in town other than walk its few streets, enjoy the views and soak up the casual atmosphere.
You might drop into the small Whale Centre at 411 Campbell St (March-Oct daily 9am-8pm; free; tel 725-2132), one of many places to book whale-watching tours, but also home to exhibits and artefacts devoted to local seafaring and trading history, whales and aboriginal peoples' culture. Another notable place around town is the Eagle Aerie Gallery , 350 Campbell St (tel 725-3235), a gallery belonging to noted Tsimshian artist Roy Vickers and housed in a traditional long-house-style building with a beautiful cedar interior. Two fine beaches also lie within walking distance to the southeast of the town: Mackenzie Beach and Chesterman's Beach , the former one of the warmer spots locally, the latter home to a fair number of out-of-town accommodation possibilities . Beyond Chesterman lies Frank Island, a tempting proposition at low tide, but sadly private property. The quietest beach around these parts, though, is Templar , a miniature strip of sand: ask at the infocentre for directions.
Tofino's easily reached by Laidlaw
bus
(tel 385-4411 or 1-800/318-0818) from Port Alberni (2 daily; 3hr) and Nanaimo (1 daily; 4hr 30min), with a single early-morning connection from Victoria, changing at Nanaimo (6hr 30min; $47.50 one-way). The bus depot is on 1st Street near the junction with Neil Street. For
flights
, the excellent North Vancouver Air (tel 604/278-1608 or 1-800/228-6608) operates to here from Vancouver (1hr flight; $175 one-way) and Victoria (45min; $225 one-way). Baxter Aviation (tel 250/754-1066, 604/683-6525 in Vancouver or 1-800/661-5599) also run connecting flights to Tofino and Ucluelet
from Vancouver harbour, Victoria, Seattle and many other smaller centres. The
infocentre
at 380 Campbell St (March-Sept daily 9am-8pm; tel 725-3414,
tofino@island.net
) can give you the exhaustive lowdown on all the logistics of boat and plane tours. Other useful information
for tourists (each section contains more specific sub-sections): |
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Canada,
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