A new hostel , Lodged Inn , 3201 Pleasant Valley Rd (tel 549-3742 or 1-888/737-9427, www.windsrivers.bc.ca ; up to $40), has dormitory accommodation in a beautiful old house - from the bus station, head to 32nd Avenue, take a right and then the fourth left onto Pleasant Valley Drive. There are also plenty of motels in town: a sound if bland choice is the Sandman Inn at 4201 32nd St (tel 542-4325 or 1-800/726-3626, www.sandman.ca ; $60-80). The Polson Park Motel (tel 549-2231 or 1-800/480-2231; $40-60), opposite the eponymous park on 24th Avenue, is one of the cheapest options. The Schell Motel , 2810 35th St (tel 545-1351 or 1-888/772-4355; $40-60), tempts clients with a pool and sauna. Campsites near town all get busy during the high season, and you may have to trek along the lakeshore for some way to strike lucky; try Dutch's Tent and Trailer Court (tel 545-1023; $17-21; year-round) at 15408 Kalamalka Rd, 3km south of Vernon near Kalamalka Beach. Much more rural is Ellison Provincial Park , 16km off to the southwest on Okanagan Lake (reservations possible, $15; March-Nov). To the north, 5km south of the O'Keefe Ranch , is Newport Beach Recreational Park (tel 542-7131; $16; mid-May to mid-Oct), situated at Westside Road on Okanagan Lake.

In the food department, there are plenty of choices, especially amongst the many cafes and sandwich places. Downtown, try the Bean to Cup on 39th Avenue and 27th Street for soups, sandwiches and Internet access, or The Italian Kitchen , 3006 30th Ave, serving up food true to its name. At 3127 30th Ave, KT's has saltwater aquariums alongside its tables and serves pizza, pasta, sandwiches and burgers. Sir Winston's , 2705 32nd St, is the downtown pub of choice.