fiogf49gjkf0d Lying at the confluence of the Saint John and Madawaska rivers, wood-pulping
EDMUNDSTON
is the largest town in the north of New Brunswick, with a population of nearly twelve thousand. It's a brash, modern place, where a profusion of flashing neon signs proclaim the proximity of the USA, which lies just over the biggest of the town's three bridges. Edmundston is mainly French-speaking and, curiously, regards itself as the capital of the enclave known as the
Republic of Madawaska
, the snout-shaped tract of Canadian territory jutting out into the state of Maine. While the idea of an independent state here is preposterous, the "Republic" is more than a publicity stunt: it signifies the frustration of a people over whom the British and Americans haggled for thirty years until 1842, and who still feel ignored by Fredericton. Yet the town packages the Republic frivolously, with Ruritanian touches such as a coat of arms, a flag, honorary knights and a president (otherwise the mayor).
There's a seasonal
tourist office
(tel 737-6766) adjoining the municipal museum just off the Trans-Canada (Exit 18) at the top of Boulevard Hebert, which runs downtown. SMT
buses
pull in at 169 Victoria St, just off Boulevard Hebert before the Fournier Bridge over the Madawaska River into the town centre. For downtown
accommodation
, head for the standard-issue comforts of the
Howard Johnson Hotel
, 100 Rice St (tel 739-7321 or 1-800/654-2000; $80-100). Another, much cheaper option is the simple
Hotel Praga
, near the marina at 127 Victoria St (tel 735-5567; $40-60).
Other useful information
for tourists (each section contains more specific sub-sections):
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