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Baie-Comeau
 

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The road into the western sector of BAIE-COMEAU may be a fairly drab landscape of strip malls, but it's nothing compared to the eastern sector, where a monstrous newsprint mill plant churns out poisonous emissions 24 hours a day. It was established in 1936 by Colonel Robert R. McCormick, the publisher of the Chicago Tribune , and Baie-Comeau has done nothing but boom ever since - with a population of 26,000, it dwarfs the communities around it. There's no real reason to hang around here, but while waiting for a northward bus or a ferry to Gaspe's Matane you might stroll through the quartier Sainte-Amelie in the eastern Marquette sector, where the streets are lined by grand houses dating from the 1930s. The Eglise Sainte-Amelie , 37 ave Marquette (daily: June to mid-Sept 9am-6pm; mid-Sept to May 10am-5pm; free), is worth a quick peek for its frescoes and stained-glass windows, designed by the Italian artist Guido Nincheri.

There's a seasonal tourist information office on the western edge of town at 3503 boul Lafleche (June-Aug daily 8am-8pm). Buses terminate at 212 boul Lasalle (tel 296-6921); the departure point for the car ferry to Matane is beyond the eastern end of boul Lasalle on rue Cartier (Jan-March: 4 per week; April-Dec: 1-2 daily; 2hr 20min; $11.85 single, cars $28.35; tel 294-8593 or 1-877/562-6560).

Accommodation is available at the rambling stone hotel Le Manoir , 8 Cabot (tel 296-3391 or 1-800/463-8567; $80-100), which overlooks the St Lawrence. Less expensive motels are along boul Lasalle; try the modern Hotel-Motel La Caravelle , at no. 202 (tel 296-4986 or 1-800/463-4986; $60-80). The cheapest place in town is Motel Lasalle , 196 boul Lasalle (tel 296-6601; $40-60) but for a few dollars more, there are a few B&Bs : Gite au vieux quart-ier , 57 rue Champlain (tel 294-2614; $40-60) is the only one in the older Marquette area. For camping , Camping Manic 2 at km24 on Hwy 389 (tel 296-3951 or 2810) has six-person sites for $15. The hotel, Le Manoir is pricey for eating but has an excellent reputation. For down-to-earth eats, Le 3 Barils , 200 boul Lasalle, is convenient, and Brasserie Le Boucannier , in the western sector at 720 boul Lafleche, has surf and turf and pizza. If you're desperate for a drink , Le Blues Bar , 48 place Lasalle, has a small terrace out back.


Other useful information for tourists (each section contains more specific sub-sections):




Canada,
Quebec,
Baie Comeau