fiogf49gjkf0d The road into the western sector of
BAIE-COMEAU
may be a fairly drab landscape of strip malls, but it's nothing compared to the eastern sector, where a monstrous newsprint mill plant churns out poisonous emissions 24 hours a day. It was established in 1936 by Colonel Robert R. McCormick, the publisher of the
Chicago Tribune
, and Baie-Comeau has done nothing but boom ever since - with a population of 26,000, it dwarfs the communities around it. There's no real reason to hang around here, but while waiting for a northward bus or a ferry to Gaspe's Matane you might stroll through the
quartier Sainte-Amelie
in the eastern Marquette sector, where the streets are lined by grand houses dating from the 1930s. The
Eglise Sainte-Amelie
, 37 ave Marquette (daily: June to mid-Sept 9am-6pm; mid-Sept to May 10am-5pm; free), is worth a quick peek for its frescoes and stained-glass windows, designed by the Italian artist Guido Nincheri.
There's a seasonal
tourist information
office on the western edge of town at 3503 boul Lafleche (June-Aug daily 8am-8pm).
Buses
terminate at 212 boul Lasalle (tel 296-6921); the departure point for the
car ferry
to Matane is beyond the eastern end of boul Lasalle on rue Cartier (Jan-March: 4 per week; April-Dec: 1-2 daily; 2hr 20min; $11.85 single, cars $28.35; tel 294-8593 or 1-877/562-6560).
Accommodation
is available at the rambling stone hotel
Le Manoir
, 8 Cabot (tel 296-3391 or 1-800/463-8567; $80-100), which overlooks the St Lawrence. Less expensive
motels
are along boul Lasalle; try the modern
Hotel-Motel La Caravelle
, at no. 202 (tel 296-4986 or 1-800/463-4986; $60-80). The cheapest place in town is
Motel Lasalle
, 196 boul Lasalle (tel 296-6601; $40-60) but for a few dollars more, there are a few
B&Bs
:
Gite au vieux quart-ier
, 57 rue Champlain (tel 294-2614; $40-60) is the only one in the older Marquette area. For
camping
,
Camping Manic 2
at km24 on Hwy 389 (tel 296-3951 or 2810) has six-person sites for $15. The hotel,
Le Manoir
is pricey for
eating
but has an excellent reputation. For down-to-earth eats,
Le 3 Barils
, 200 boul Lasalle, is convenient, and
Brasserie Le Boucannier
, in the western sector at 720 boul Lafleche, has surf and turf and pizza. If you're desperate for a
drink
,
Le Blues Bar
, 48 place Lasalle, has a small terrace out back.
Other useful information
for tourists (each section contains more specific sub-sections):
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