The summer resort town of MAGOG , forty or so kilometres east of Bromont, gets its name from a corruption of an aboriginal word meaning "great expanse of water" - the expanse of which is one of the township's largest lakes, Lac MemphrA©magog , which reaches into the town. The lake is unremarkable except for the fact that the actors Sylvester Stallone and Donald Sutherland have homes on its shore and a strange beast known as MemphrA© supposedly lurks in its waters (the subject of various fishy tales since 1798). A cruise boat plies the lake daily in summer and at weekends in September and October (1hr 45min tour; $12). There's also the option of a day-long ride to Newport in the US (tel 1-888/842-8068 to reserve; June-Aug 2-3 weekly; $45 including meals). One quirky diversion is at the Labyrinthe MemphrA©magog on the beach fronting the lake - you can navigate a maze on rollerblades or on foot (late June to early Sept daily 10am-9pm; early Sept to late June Sat & Sun 10am-9pm; $6). Explore the area on numerous well-kept bike trails; Ski-VA©lo Vincent Renaud, 49 rue Principale, can provide wheels for around $15 a day.

The bus stops on rue Sherbrooke, parallel to the main drag, rue Principale. The information centre , at 55 rue Cabana, is accessed by Hwy 112 (June to mid-Oct daily 8.30am-8pm; mid-Oct to May Mon-Fri 9am-5pm; tel 1-800/267-2744). There are many places to stay, including a few century-old houses converted into B&Bs : A? Bois Dormant , 205 rue Abbot (tel 819/843-0450, www.oboisdormant.qc.ca ; $40-60) is the least expensive option; it comes with a veranda and pool. Au Coeur du Magog , 120 rue Merry Nord (tel 819/868-2511, www.au-coeur-de-magog.qbc.net ; $60-80), is a fine old house with home-made breakfasts; La Belle Victorienne , 142 rue Merry Nord (tel 819/847-0476; $60-80), has beautiful gardens and comfy rooms. Hotels are expensive in Magog but if you want to splurge, Auberge du Grand Lac , 40 rue Merry Sud (tel 819/847-4039 or 1-800/267-4039; www.grandlac.com ; $100-125 including breakfast), is near the lake with a rooftop terrace for sunsets, full facilities, and a basic breakfast; Le Manoir St-Christophe , 2316 Hwy 112 (tel 819/843-3355; $80-100) is a standard hotel with ten rooms. Several bars and restaurants are clustered along rue Principale: Le Panier A  Pain , at no. 382, serves up healthy sandwiches and soups, while Le Martimbeault , at no. 341, is a good dinner option specializing in rich French food that will set you back about $30 a meal. Alternatively, get a veggie fix at Bonjour SantA© at 108 Place du Commerce. Many people hang out at the bistro/bar La Grosse Pomme at no. 276 rue Principale in the evening.

Around Magog, a local attraction is the Parc du Mont-Orford , 10km north of Magog via Hwy 141. Ski on Mont Orford (859m) in winter (ski passes $36) or hike in the summer - the chair lift operates year-round ($6.50 one-way, $9.50 return). There's not much to see in the town of ORFORD itself, but the summertime youth hostel, Auberge du Centre d'Arts , 3165 chemin du Parc (Hwy 141) (tel 819/843-8595 or 1-800/567-6155; up to $40; May-Oct), is a great base for exploring the park and neighbouring Magog. You can also camp at either of the park's two main sites (tel 819/843-9855 or 1-877/843-9855; $16.75). The only other accommodation options are more upscale in price and service: Le GA®te de la Tour , 1837 Alfred-Desrochers (tel 819/868-0763, www.auberge-de-la-tour.com ; $80-100), is a charming country inn while the Auberge Au Lion d'Or , 2240 chemin du Parc (tel 819/843-6000; $80-100), has a health spa and a heated outdoor pool. For dining, Tonnerre de Brest , 2197 chemin du Parc, serves up crepes, mussels and fries, and La MA©rise , at no. 2329, has regional cuisine.

Near the northwest corner of the park, a twenty-minute drive from Magog, is the unusual Mine Crystal QuA©bec , near the village of Bonsecours off Hwy 243 (July & Aug daily 10.30am-5pm; June & Sept Sat & Sun 10.30am-5pm; guided tours at 11am, 1.30pm & 3.30pm - phone ahead to book an English-speaking tour $7; tel 450/535-6550, www.crystalsanctuary.com ). This small operation is the only quartz-crystal mine in Canada - a peaceful place that just mines enough to sell in the shop. One of the northern hemisphere's largest crystals, a four-foot-long great smoky quartz from Brazil, is here, and regular quartz-crystal-bowl "concerts" produce extraordinary singing harmonies.