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Sept-Iles
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The largest ore-exporting port in eastern Canada,
SEPT-ILES
is a good base for trips further north, owing to its rail links with Labrador. The town itself has as much character as a pile of iron ore, but it's pleasantly situated on the St Lawrence shore and you could spend an enjoyable day here - especially in August, when one of Quebec's foremost native-music festivals is held nearby.
The town is best appreciated along the waterfront - a 27km bike path leads from Parc Riviere des Rapides , with a three-kilometre walking trail and ice-fishing in winter, to the beaches east of town. The road down to the third beach, Plage Routhier , offers the best view of the seven islands that gave Sept-Iles its name. Along the way, the path passes through the Jardins de l'Anse - a good spot for bird-watching - and along the riverfront promenade in the Parc du Vieux Quai , where evening concerts of Quebecois music are held under the yellow tent (late June to Aug Thurs-Sun; free). An interesting overview of local history is offered by Le Vieux-Poste , on boulevard des Montagnais, west of the centre (late June to mid-Aug daily 9am-5pm; $3.25). Prior to the British conquest, when the Hudson's Bay Company took over the trade here, Sept-Iles was leased by the French crown to merchant traders. Settlements like these opened up Quebec for the Europeans but practically destroyed the lives of the native Montagnais. Converted to Christianity and overwhelmed by their desire for and subsequent need of European goods - particularly firearms, which aided them in their battles against the feared Iroquois - the Montagnais were forced by market pressure to hunt more and more fur-bearing animals. The resulting depletion of game was worsened so much by the later lumber and mining industries that the Montagnais were obliged to live on official reserves in order to become eligible for state hand-outs. The reconstructed Vieux-Poste, with its small chapel, store and postmaster's house, presents an absorbing portrayal of the Montagnais culture and is staffed by local Montagnais who produce crafts and food, which are sold at a decently priced handicrafts store. The excellent Musee Shaputuan , 290 boul des Montagnais (late June to early Sept daily 9am-5pm; early Sept to late June Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat 1-5pm; $3) presents the traditional life of the Innu (Montagnais) people as it is shaped by the seasons. Unlike most descriptive museums, the exhibits speak to the viewer - often literally. Trilingual interpretive panels and audio and video recordings continue the tradition of oral history, with the stories of hunting, fishing, food preparation and scapulomancy (predicting the movement of caribou herds by "reading" the scorch marks left on a bone placed in the fire) told by specific individuals. Artefacts on display supplement the histories, and sculptures illustrate the myths and folk tales of the Innu. Temporary exhibitions in summer feature works by aboriginal artists, while in winter they are more educational, focusing on a single aspect of life such as trapping. The round hall is used for symposia, primarily for Innu people who want to learn more about their own culture.
Just offshore, the largest island in the archipelago,
Ile Grande Basque
, has 12km of easy walking trails and picnic spots; obtain
camping
permits for $7 at the kiosk in Parc du Vieux Quai. From June to September, the quay is the departure point for regular
passenger ferries
(20 min; $15) and
cruises
offered by Les Excursions La Petite Sirene (tel 968-2173; 1-3 daily; 2-4hr), Croisiere Petit Pingouin (tel 968-9558; 1-3 daily; 2-3hr) and Crosiere Archipel des Sept-Iles (late June to early Oct daily; 3hr). Whales and a sea-bird sanctuary are the main attractions, but
fishing trips
are also available if you fancy cod for dinner; you can also catch herring right from the quay in early summer.
Kayak tours
are another possibility - Vetements des Iles, 637 ave Brochu (tel 962-7223 or 1-800/470-7223,
www.vetementsdesiles.com
) offers rentals for $39 per day and two-day guided tours for $150. Other useful information
for tourists (each section contains more specific sub-sections): |
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Canada,
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