The town has several reasonably priced, central hotels and motels , including the recently renovated and good value Capone's Hideaway Theme Motel , 1 Main St N opposite the defunct train station (tel 692-6422 or 1-877/443-2929; $40-60), where the rooms have been given a 1920s feel; alternatively the Midtown Hideaway Hotel is also centrally located at 132 Athabasca St E (tel 692-0601; $40-60). Further out there's a Comfort Inn, 155 Thatcher Drive W (tel 693-6266 or 1-800/228-5150; $80-100) and nearby the Super 8 Motel , 1706 Main St N (tel 692-8888 or 1-800/800-8000; $60-80). The four-star Temple Gardens Mineral Spa , 24 Fairford St East (tel 694-5055 or 1-800/718-7727, fax 694-8310; $80-240), has luxurious rooms (each with its own jacuzzi, using chlorine-free mineral waters) and spa suites, geothermal pools and facilities for massage, facials, reflexology and hydrotherapy treatments - guests receive a free rubber duck, too. Book well in advance: this is Saskatchewan's most popular hotel. The Redland Cottage A  B&B in a tree-lined residential area at 1122 Redland Ave (tel 694-5563, fax 693-8933; $40-60/$60-80) has comfortable bedrooms and full breakfasts. The River Park Campground (tel 692-5474; mid-April to mid-Oct) is 2km southeast of the centre at 300 River Drive, with sites from $13-18 per night.

Moose Jaw's restaurants would never win any culinary awards, but there are a few worthwhile places to fill your stomach. The Copper CafA© , part of the Yvette Moore Gallery in the 1910 Land Titles building at 76 Fairford St W, has wonderful daily specials, and the adjacent gallery features work by Yvette Moore and her prairie contemporaries (Jan-April Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; May-Dec Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 1-4pm; free). Houston Pizza and Steak House , 117 Main St North, has Italian dishes from $6; the National CafA© , 20 Main St, has a good-value daily smorgasbord; the Prairie Oasis Restaurant , junction of Hwy 1 East and Thatcher Drive, specializes in freshly baked pies; and the Hopkins Dining Parlour , 65 Athabasca St West, located in a pleasant Victorian house, is a more formal affair with a wide-ranging menu and main courses from $18. For something more exotic, try the well-recommended but unappealingly named Nit's Thai Food , 124 Main St N, which has main courses from $6. Suntree , 23 Main St N, opposite Tunnel Central, is a coffee house with massive cups of coffee, a twee gift shop and Internet access and, on the other side of the street, Cash Cable CafA© still features the complicated cash carrier system used by department stores, before the invention of the till, that carried shoppers' cash by cable to the accountants upstairs. It's one of only two in the world still operating and was kept in Moose Jaw despite Euro-Disney's attempts to purchase it.