In this part of the world, however, it's also worth knowing the various smaller airline options. Air North (tel 668-2228, www.airnorth.yk.net ) operates sometimes alarmingly old-fashioned looking but totally reliable scheduled planes (usually four weekly) between Whitehorse, Dawson City, Old Crow, Mayo, Juneau and Fairbanks. Alkan Air (tel 668-2107, www.yukonweb.com/tourism/alkanair ) offers flights to and from Dawson City, Faro, Ross River, Old Crow, Watson Lake and a handful of BC destinations - most enable you to make same-day connections to flights from Whitehorse to Vancouver and Edmonton; it also flies to Norman Wells and Inuvik in the NWT. Era Aviation (tel 907/266-8393, www.eraaviation.com ) has a scheduled service between Anchorage and Whitehorse, plus services to Cordova, Kenai, Homer, Kodiak, Iliamna and Valdez. There are also any number of small charter companies who fly into the backcountry (notably Kluane National Park) for sightseeing, wildlife-watching, fishing and photography trips. Contact the visitor centre for details.

Whitehorse is the end of the line for Greyhound buses in Canada (tel 667-2223). For Alaska and Yukon stops west of Whitehorse , the expensive Gray Lines' Alaskon Express (tel 668-3225) runs from Skagway daily to Whitehorse's bus terminal and Westmark Whitehorse hotel (late May to mid-Sept daily; US$45) and then on to Anchorage and Fairbanks (US$170) three times a week (currently Sun, Tues & Thurs, but days of departure vary from year to year so check current times). Note that the bus stops overnight at Beaver Creek at the Yukon-Alaska border en route for Alaska, so you either have to camp or to find the price of accommodation (inform Gray Lines if you wish to stay at the Westmark in Beaver Creek as they may be able to obtain a discounted rate). Gray Lines' Whitehorse office is at the Westmark Whitehorse hotel, 2nd Avenue and Wood Street (tel 668-3225 or 1-800/544-2206 winter only). Currently, a cheaper service based in the US, Alaska Direct (tel 668-4833 or 1-800/780-6652), operates from Whitehorse to Skagway and vice versa (departs noon; Mon, Tues, Thurs & Sat; US$50; pick-ups arranged from hotels, Main St or bus depot). It runs three times weekly (Sun, Wed, Fri; departs 6am) to Fairbanks (US$140), Anchorage (US$165) and most points north, including Tok, Haines Junction, Burwash Landing and Beaver Creek. Unlike Alaskon, it does not overnight at Beaver Creek en route for Alaska, so you sleep (or otherwise) on the bus.

Dawson City Courier (tel 993-6688) operate out of the main bus terminal and run to Dawson City at 2am, arriving at Dawson around 9.30pm (daily in July & Aug, times and days vary outside these months, so call for details; $72). It's well worth booking ahead to be sure of seat. If you want to take the White Pass & Yukon Railway to Skagway, you can book a bus-train ticket through the railway (tel 907/983-2217 or 1-800/343-7373, fax 907/983-2734): buses leave Whitehorse at 1.30pm to connect with the train at Fraser, the line's northern terminus ($95 inclusive one-way; train only $64). If you book in Whitehorse, tickets can be collected at the Gray Lines' desk in the Westmark Whitehorse Hotel . If you wish to make a round trip from Whitehorse using the bus-train arrangement you'll need to overnight in Skagway.

For car rental , try Budget Car and Truck, 4178 4th Ave (tel 667-6200), or Norcan, 213 Range Rd (tel 668-2137 or 1-800/661-0445, fax 633-7596), which unlike its competitors might rent you a car or truck suitable for gravel roads like the Dempster and Cassiar highways.