Banks and exchange The Bank of China on Zhongshan Lu is able to change currency and travellers' cheques (Mon-Fri 9-11.30am & 1.30-5pm). Larger hotels, such as the Holiday Inn, Sheraton and Hidden Hill, may allow non-residents to use their services, too.

Bookshops The Xinhua bookstore on Zhongshan Lu, just north of Yiren Lu, has a small selection of English classics and translations of Chinese novels - take the southernmost, smallest entrance through to the back and look for the "Reading Matter English Books" sign.

Hospital Renmin Hospital, off Wenming Lu, is the best place to head if you get sick and your accommodation can't help out.

Internet You can get connected for A?10 an hour at the building opposite the Zhongshan Bei Lu post office, about 2.5km north of the train station (bus #1).

Pharmacies There's a good pharmacy at the southeastern corner of the Jiefang Lu-Zhongshan Lu intersection.

PSB Sanduo Lu, west off Zhongshan Lu, just north of Rong Hu.

Post and telecommunications The most convenient post office is just north of the station on Zhongshan Nan Lu, with mail services and post restante downstairs, telephones upstairs (daily 8am-8pm). There's also another major branch about 2.5km farther north on Zhongshan Bei Lu.

Shopping Zhongshan Lu is lined from top to bottom with uninspiring junk souvenirs and well-stocked department stores, the best of which is the Niko-Niko Do Plaza on the corner with Jiefang Lu.

Travel agents Hotel tour desks can help with plane, bus and boat tickets, as can the CITS, at 41 Binjiang Lu (Mon-Sat 7.30am-noon, 1-6pm & 7-9pm; tel 2828294, fax 2827197), and the CTS, at 64 Binjiang Lu daily 8am-5pm (tel 2860988, fax 2860688). For Li River cruises only, try State Run Li River Boat Ticket Selling Office, farther up Binjiang Lu from the CITS, which at the time of writing was offering slightly discounted fares of A?460 to Yangshuo.