In the town centre, the friendly and reputable Lynch Tours (tel 777-0161, fax 777-1571, www.lynchtravel.com ) is a good source of unbiased information. They can get you to Dominical, Corcovado, and BahA­a Drake either by bus or plane, and arrange transfers to nearly all parts of the country in air-conditioned Mercedes shuttle buses; they also arrange airport transfers (US$3) and handle plane-ticket sales and reservations. Their many local tours include horse-riding trips to a local waterfall (US$55), sports-fishing (US$500-1000 for full day's offshore fishing), sea kayaking (US$60), whitewater rafting (US$75-US$90), rainforest canopy tours (US$80), and ever-popular daytime or sunset cruises, some specifically to see dolphins (US$60).

Equus Stables (tel 777-0001, havefun@racsa.co.cr ), on the road to Manuel Antonio, can take you horse-riding on the beach - sunset is the time to go - and up into the mountains behind on a two-hour tour (US$35). As elsewhere in the country, it's worth having a look at how the horses are treated and stabled before you ride, since overwork and abuse of horses is fairly widespread and a thorny issue among travellers and riding outfitters. The area's best established sports-fishing outfitter is Costa Rica Dreams (tel & fax 777-0593), while Isabel Guillen's Boutique El Pescador (tel & fax 777-1596) is also recommended; a day's fishing will cost up to US$950. Rafting outfitters Los Amigos del RA­o (tel & fax 777-1262) have offices in Quepos itself, next to the church, and between Quepos and Manuel Antonio (look for a large orange building on the left with inflatable rafts outside).

One of the most popular activities hereabouts are the cruises along the coast to Manuel Antonio. Sunset Sails (tel & fax 777-1304; or book through Lynch Tours) offer dolphin-watching or sunset cruises (Dec-April only) in a classic wooden yacht, with stunning views of the coastline and offshore islands (US$60 for a 4hr cruise); they claim that whales and sea turtles are sometimes spotted. The cruise includes lunch and snorkelling, and there's time for a swim off the boat. Another popular excursion is the day-trip to Hacienda BarA? , a private hacienda-cum-nature-reserve near Dominical (tel 787-0003, fax 787-0004, sstroud@racsa.co.cr ). They have a canopy observation platform from where you get a bird's-eye view of the upper rainforest canopy, and also offer horse-riding.