Banks and exchange Banque Misr, Sharia Labaib Habachi (daily 8.30am-9pm, Fri closed between 11.30am & 3pm), has a cash dispenser (Visa, MasterCard, Cirrus) outside. Other banks include National Bank of Egypt, 50m south of the Winter Palace (daily except Fri 8.30am-2pm & 5-9pm, Fri 8.30-11am & 5-9pm); Banque du Caire, Midan Salah al-Din, near Television St (winter daily except Fri 8.30am-2pm & 5-8pm, summer same days till 9pm). The Bank of Alexandria on the Corniche between the City Council and Luxor Museum exchanges cash, travellers' cheques and does Visa cash advances (Mon-Thurs & Sun 8.30am-2pm; Ramadan 10am-1.30pm). Many of the luxury hotels also do currency exchange.

Bookshops Aboudi and Gaddis in the bazaar near the tourist office, and Hachette, in the arcade of the Etap, stock loads of novels and books on Egyptology in foreign languages. A kiosk on the Corniche near the tourist office sells foreign newspapers. The best place for postcards is on the corner of Sharia al-Souk and Sharia Yussef Hassan.

British Consul (Honorary) Mr Ehab A.A. Gaddis can help British citizens in the event of trouble. Contact him at the "consulate" at the Gaddis Hotel (Mon-Thurs & Sat 10am-2pm & 7-10pm; tel 095/382-838).

Dentist Dr Moneer el-Shaoly, on Sharia al-Mahatta (tel 095/373-710).

Doctors Dr Makrus Faoze, Sharia al-Adasi (tel 095/382-614, mobile 01234/00729); dermatologist Dr Selim Fakhri (tel 095/372-028); urologist Dr Samy Fakhri (tel 095/374-964).

EgyptAir In the arcade outside the Winter Palace (daily 8am-8pm; tel 095/380-580).

Hospital The El-Gadid is at the far end of Television St (tel 095/382-698); the new St Mark is on Sharia el-Karnak opposite the hotel of the same name (tel 095/370-465), while the older Al-Amiri is on the Corniche near the Luxor Museum (tel 095/372-025); all open 24hr. English is spoken but they're all pretty grim - seek treatment in Cairo if you can. Ambulance tel 123.

Internet cafes Cyber, Sharia al-Adasi (daily except Fri 7am-11pm; Internet ?E45/hr, ?E5 to send or receive an email); Aboudi, in bookshop of the same name (daily 8am-10pm; Internet ?E25/hr); Rainbow Internet Cafe, on the Corniche at the entrance to the Military Club (daily 9am-midnight; Internet ?E30/hr, ?E5 to send or receive an email).

Passport office On Sharia Ibn Khalid Walid (Mon-Thurs & Sat 8am-2pm; tel 095/380-885). Visa extensions cost ?E12 and require one photo. Some English spoken.

Pharmacies Exist all over town and have a rota for working nights, posted in Arabic. Hotels are generally aware of likely locations.

Post office At the temple end of Sharia al-Mahatta (Mon-Thurs & Sun 8am-2pm), with a branch in the station (daily 8am-8pm) and another next to the telephone exchange on Sharia el-Karnak (daily 8am-8pm). Don't use the poste restante; have letters sent c/o American Express or the Winter Palace. It's less hassle to send packages with DHL, on the Corniche next to the Mina Palace Hotel (daily 8am-6pm).

Telephone calls The cheapest way to call abroad is with a phonecard (?E15-30), sold at the 24-hour telephone office off Sharia el-Karnak, which can also be used in phones in the station. However, not enough lines exist to meet demand in off-peak hours (8pm-8am), so you may have to try several different phones before getting a connection. This enables hotels with a private line to get away with charging ?E35 (minimum 3min) for international calls.

Thomas Cook Outside the Winter Palace. Changes currency and sells travellers' cheques. Also does tours and makes reservations (daily 8am-8pm; tel 095/372-402, fax 376-502).