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Eating
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The culinary scene is less diverse than in Cairo or Alexandria, but there's no shortage of places to eat. Upmarket
hotel restaurants
offer A/C, good service and cuisines such as Chinese (at the
Isis),
Japanese (at the
Sonesta St. George),
Italian or French (most places). Prices are usually steep, but there are some good deals, like the all-you-can-eat
salad bars
in the
New Winter Palace
and the
Etap
coffee shop, or the rich spaghetti bolognese served at the
Gaddis.
Elsewhere you'll mainly find pizzas, kebabs, omelettes and other dishes palatable to tourists. Menus are written up outside and all the waiters know English, so it's easy to order. Providing you're ready for service charges and tax (up to 21 percent), the total cost shouldn't come as a shock.
All the usual street food can be found along El-Karnak, Ramses and Yussef Hassan streets, but it's hard for foreigners to avoid being overcharged, even if they know the proper price. The same is also true for tea, coffee and sheeshas at cafA©s, cigarettes, pastries and other items. One 24-hour bakery near the corner of Sharia al-Mahatta and the souk turns out pretzels and rolls, while Twinky's, at the station end of Sharia al-Adasi, abounds in sticky confectionery. The poolside gelateria in the MA?venpick Jolie Ville serves the best ice cream in Luxor. Most of the following restaurants are inexpensive by Western standards, and largely cater to low-budget tourists. All are open from mid-morning (or earlier) till 9-10pm (or later), but the range of meals diminishes as the evening wears on. Unless stated otherwise, they don't sell alcohol. We've only listed cafA©s that sell food, but there are scores of local coffee houses where you can sample exotic beverages - try helba, a bright yellow tea made from fenugreek. Abu Hagger Restaurant , Sharia al-Adasi. Fronted by bloodstained haunches in display cabinets, it is said by locals to do the best kebab and kofta in town. A bit overrated but not bad for the price, which is reasonable. Abu Hassan el-Shazly Restaurant , Sharia al-Adasi. Just along from Abu Hagger, its murals and stained glass make it look a more enticing prospect, and the menu also runs to pizzas and fish. Prices, though, are slightly higher. Aly Baba CafA© , on the corner near the Luxor. Usual dishes but overpriced. The main attraction is the view of Luxor Temple and the hotel gardens. Waiters call "Hey you" to solicit custom. Amoun Restaurant , in the tourist bazaar on Sharia el-Karnak. Chicken, fish, omelettes, soup and other staples. The shaded tables outside are plagued by hustlers; inside is A/C. Average prices. Champollion Snack Bar , in the Etap. Pizza, burgers, cakes and beer. A?E17 minimum charge. Class Restaurant , Sharia Khalid Ibn Walid, near the Isis. An upmarket A/C joint popular with hotel guests and good for splurging out. Sells beer and wine. El-Houda , Television St. Shorter on quality than its long menu of grills, kebabs and pizzas suggests. Average prices. El-Hussein , in the tourist bazaar on Sharia el-Karnak. Like the Amoun, next door, it has become smarter but less welcoming since it moved into the bazaar. Their menus are almost identical. Green Palace Restaurant , Sharia el-Karnak, next to the YMCA. Smart place with good Italian and Egyptian food and a swimming pool. Expensive (main courses A?E25 upwards). Jamboree , 29 Sharia el-Montazah, between the fire station and the telephone exchange. Spotlessly clean place with roof terrace, serving a range of mid-priced Egyptian and international dishes including Cajun chicken (A?E22.50) and tasty jacket potatoes (A?E9-13). Owned and run by a friendly Scottish couple. Daily 10.30am-2.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm. King's Head Pub , Sharia Ibn Khalid Walid, near the passport office. Club sandwiches (A?E17), soups and main dishes, with a real British Sunday lunch of roast beef and Yorkshire pud (A?E20). Maharba , above the tourist office, with a rooftop terrace overlooking the Theban Hills and a darkened indoor restaurant. Serves the usual food (plus beer) at fairly upmarket rates. No hustlers. Mish Mish , Television St. A friendly A/C pizza outlet that's popular with tourists. Its name means "apricot". Reasonably priced. New Karnak Restaurant , below the hotel of the same name, opposite the station. Omelettes, soups, salads, curries and spaghetti with a smidgin of sauce. Inexpensive. Peace Abouzeid Restaurant , north of town on the Corniche. Range of tasty Arabic dishes in a pleasant setting. Expensive (mains A?E27 upwards). Pub 2000 and Esquire Restaurant , just off Sharia Ibn Khalid Walid near the Law Courts. Mock pub serving passable food at reasonable prices (main courses A?E10-40). Special "backpacker deal" chicken and chips for A?E9. Imported beer and Stella (A?E9). Happy hour 7.30-8.30pm. Royal Fish , off Television St beside the bus garage. Tasty meals of Red Sea fish with rice, chips, salad and tahina (A?E10). Basic decor. Daily 8am-midnight. Saiyida Nafisa , Sharia Mustafa Kamel, just past the mosque at the end of Sharia Yussef Hassan. Rather shabby, but does a great kushari. Open till midnight. Saiyida Zeinab , at the start of Television St. Sparklingly clean place, serving excellent kushari. Open till late. Venus Garden , opposite the Venus Hotel on Sharia Yussef Hassan. Tasty, inexpensive light meals and beer.
Victoria Lounge
in the
Winter Palace.
Does a spiffing afternoon tea (A?E25) from 3 to 6pm. Other useful information
for tourists (each section contains more specific sub-sections): |
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Egypt,
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