Books Academic Bookstore, Keskuskatu 1, has a good stock of English paperbacks.

Car rental Avis, Pohjoinen Rautatiekatu (tel 09/441155); Budget, Malminkatu 24 (tel 09/6866500); Europcar/InterRent, Mannerheimintie 50 (tel 09/47802220).

Embassies Canada, Pohjoisesplanadi 25b (tel 09/171141); Ireland, Erottajankatu 7A (tel 09/646006); UK, ItA¤inen Puistotie 17 (tel 09/22865100); USA, ItA¤inen Puistotie 14a (tel 09/171931). Australian citizens should contact their embassy in Stockholm.

Exchange Best done at banks, otherwise try the airport (6.30am-11pm); Katajanokka harbour, where Viking and Finnjet dock (daily 9-11.30am & 3.45-6pm); or Forex at the train station (daily 8am-9pm).

Ferries Reservations and information: Silja Line tel 9800/74 552, www.silja.fi ; Tallink tel 09/2282 1277, www.tallink.fi ; Viking Line tel 09/123 577, www.vikingline.fi .

Gay Helsinki See Z magazine, widely available in larger newsagents or drop into Lost and Found, Annankatu 6, a relaxed cafA©/bar-cum-restaurant-and-disco whose staff are friendly, helpful and speak excellent English. SETA, Heitalahdenkatu 2b 16, is the state-supported gay organization (tel 09/6123233, www.seta.fi ).

Hospital TA¶A¶lA¶ Hospital, Topeliuksenkatu 5 has a first-aid unit; Meilahti Hospital, Haartmaninkatu 4, has an emergency department. Both tel 09/4711.

Laundry Runeberginkatu 47 (Mon-Thur 10am-8pm, Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 10am-4pm).

Left luggage Long-distance bus station (Mon-Fri 9am-8pm, Sat 7am-6pm, Sun 9am-6pm); lockers at train station (daily 6.30am-10pm).

Pharmacies Yliopiston Apteekki, Mannerheimintie 96 (24hr); Mannerheimintie 5 (daily 7am-midnight).

Police Pieni Roobertinkatu 1-3 (tel 1891).

Post office The main office, with poste restante services, is at Mannerheimaukio 1a (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm).

Saunas & Swimming Pools Yrjo/nkatu 21b. Stunning recently renovated Art Deco pool and sauna complex in city centre (daily 6.30am-9pm though some sessions are women/men only; a?¬4-10).