Aalto left JyvA¤skylA¤ in 1927 for fame, fortune and Helsinki, but returned in the 1950s to work on what by the 1970s had grown into the JyvA¤skylA¤ University . Although Aalto died before his ambitious plan for an Administration and Cultural Centre was complete, the scheme is still under construction along Vapaudenkatu. Beside the uninspiring ex-police station - unveiled in 1970 - stands the city theatre that epitomises the style Aalto created.

On the hill running down from the university towards the lake, JyvA¤sjA¤rvi, stands two of the towns most important museums. At the request of the town authorities rather than through vanity, Aalto built the Alvar Aalto Museum at Alvar Aallon Katu 7 (Tues-Sun 11am-6pm, Aug until 8pm; a?¬5, free on Fri). The architect's best works are obviously out on the streets, but there is a reasonable collection of plans, photos and models interspersed with an interesting selection of Aalto-designed furniture. Aalto also contributed to the exterior of the nearby Keski-Suomen Museo (Museum of Central Finland; Tues-Sun 11am-6pm, Aug until 8pm; a?¬3.40, free on Fri), which contains two exhibitions: one devoted to Middle Finland - well designed but with no English translations - and the other representing each decade of the twentieth century through various domestic artifacts.

Near the bus and train stations the tourist office , at Asemakatu 6 (mid-June-Aug Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9am-3pm; Sept-May Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat 9am-2pm; tel 014/624 903, www.jyvaskyla.fi ) can supply a useful free leaflet on the local Aalto buildings. For free Internet access try the pubic library at Vapaudenkatu 39-41 (Mon-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat 10am-3pm; June-Aug Mon-Fri 11am-7pm) - bookings required. For accommodation , the central, family-run Hotel Milton , Hannikaisenkatu 27-29 (tel 014/3377 900; A?10-15/$16-24/a?¬18-27), is a good choice, while for a bit more luxury, try the Scandic Hotel JyvA¤skylA¤ at Vapaudenkatu 73 (tel 014/330 3000; A?25-30/$40-48/a?¬45-54). The local youth hostel , Laajari (tel 014/624 885; A?10-15/$16-24/a?¬18-27), is 4km from the centre, at Laajavuorentie 15 - take bus #25 from Vapaudenkatu.

For eating options try the pizza establishments along the main streets or Kissanviikset at Puistokatu 3, which serves good fish dishes at lunchtime. For nightlife check out the hard-drinking and hard-chess playing in the smoky Ruthin ravintola , Seminaarinkatu 19, or if you want your evening to swing try the Jazz Bar on Kavelakatu.