There are two good, inexpensive hotels in the town centre: the Diamant , 5 place des Heros (tel 03.21.71.23.23, fax 03.21.71.84.13; 220-300F/€34-46), a comfortable, reliable two-star; and Hotel des Trois Luppars , 47 Grand' Place (tel 03.21.07.41.41, fax 03.21.24.24.80; 220-300F/€34-46), a friendly family-run place with modern facilities in a characterful old building. For a more luxurious night, go to the Univers , a lovely classical building round a courtyard in place de la Croix-Rouge, near the Abbaye St-Vaast (tel 03.21.71.34.01, fax 03.21.71.41.42; 400-500F/€61-76; restaurant 120-260F/€18.29-39.64). The newly modernized, well-positioned hostel is at 59 Grand' Place (tel 03.21.22.70.02, fax 03.21.07.46.15; closed Nov-Jan). A campsite (closed Nov-March) lies 1km out of town on the Bapaume road.

Restaurants worth trying include La Rapiere , 44 Grand' Place, with excellent regional food and menus at 88F/€13.42 or 120F/€18.29; and, for a splurge, the gourmet La Faisanderie , a few doors away (from 135F/€20.58). Pizzerias abound: two particularly good ones are on rue Petit-Vieziers - Le Petit Theatre and Aux Petits-Vieziers - while Le Palerme at 50 Grand' Place also serves pasta. For something different, an excellent shwarma place (eat in or take away) is tucked away in rue des Trois-Visages, just around the corner from the Hotel de Ville, with a luscious range of Middle Eastern sweets.

Les Grandes Arcades , the hotel on Grand' Place (tel 03.21.23.30.89; menus from 130F/€19.82), also serves good and not wildly expensive regional food (including the local speciality andouillette , or tripe sausage - an acquired taste), and you'll find a good fromagerie , Jean-Claude Leclercq, at 39 place des Heros. Saturdays are a good day for food and wine, when the squares are taken up with a morning market , and Esto Cave, an extensive sixteenth-century wine cellar run by the delightfully large and quirky proprietor of Les Trois Luppars , is open for the sale of fine wines (10am-1pm & 3-8pm).