For a place to stay in the centre of town, try the smart and comfortable Le Square , 15 place du Square (tel 04.71.48.24.72, fax 04.71.48.47.57; 220-300F/€34-46; with a reasonable restaurant from 68F/€10.37), or the Renaissance , just next door (tel 04.71.48.09.80, fax 04.71.48.54.81; 160-220F/€24-34). Another good option is the family-run Hotel Delcher , just off the square at 20 rue des Carmes (tel 04.71.48.01.69, fax 04.71.48.86.66; 220-300F/€34-46; closed Dec & last two weeks of July; good food from 72F/€10.98).

There are a number of restaurants where you can sample auvergnat specialities. Two of the most popular are the atmospheric Le Terroir du Cantal , 5 rue du Buis (closed Sun & Mon), with its rough-stone walls and wooden benches, and Poivre et Sel , 4 rue du 14-Juillet (closed Sun & Mon; menus from 63F/€9.60), featuring classic dishes such as magret de canard . The pretty, riverside Birdland , by the Pont-Rouge, done out in the French version of pub style, serves pizzas for around 40F/€6.10 and menus for 110F/€16.77 (closed Sun); if you're looking for nightlife , the Bateau-Lavoir disco is part of the same establishment (Thurs-Sun 11pm-4/5am; 50F/€7.62). Finally, Aurillac's most unexpected event is an annual international street theatre festival ( www.aurillac.net ) during the last full week in August, which attracts performers from all over Europe and fills the town with rather more exotic characters than are normally to be seen about its provincial streets.