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Practicalities
 

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Beaune's gare SNCF is outside the old walls to the east of town in avenue du 8-Septembre. If you arrive by bus, you're likely to be dropped at the main gare routiere on the southwest side of town, just outside the walls at the end of rue Maufoux, a five-minute walk from the town's highlights. The slick tourist office , 1 rue de l'Hotel-Dieu (April to mid-Nov Mon 9am-6pm, Tues-Thurs 9am-8pm, Fri & Sat 9am-9pm, Sun 9am-7pm; mid-Nov to March daily 9am-6pm; tel 03.80.26.21.30, fax 03.80.26.21.39, www.ot-beaune.fr ), is the best place to find out about all things to do with the region's wines. You can also rent bikes from the tourist office and collect them from avenue du 8-Septembre.

If you're going to stay in Beaune, you'll have to be prepared to pay at least 200F/€30.49 a night. Be warned: the cheapest hotels may look good but you may encounter inconveniences (eg no showers after 9pm). The following are worth trying: the well-located Central , 2 rue Victor-Millot (tel 03.80.24.77.24, fax 03.80.22.30.40; 300-500F/€46-76), which also has a good restaurant with a 98F/€14.94 menu; the Grillon , 21 route de Seurre (tel 03.80.22.44.25, fax 03.80.24.94.89; 220-300F/€34-46), in an old family home; and, for a more comfortable stay, the vine-covered Le Home , 138 rte de Dijon, on the way into Beaune (tel 03.80.22.16.43, fax 03.80.24.90.74; 300-400F/€46-61). The pretty Les Cent Vignes   campsite , 10 rue Dubois (tel 03.80.22.03.91; mid-March to Oct), is about 1km out of town, off rue du Faubourg-St-Nicolas (the N74 to Dijon), before the bridge over the autoroute ; booking is advisable, as it fills up through the day.

Eating can also be an expensive business here. The best places to look for something cheap are rue Monge, place Carnot and rue Madeleine. Le Carnot , 18 rue Carnot, is a good cafeteria; and the Brelinette , 6 rue Madeleine, where menus start at 60F/€9.15, is also reasonably priced. If you are looking for something more sophisticated, try Le Benaton , 25 rue du Faubourg-Bretonniere (tel 03.80.22.00.26; closed Wed evening & Thurs), which has a good-value 105F/€16.01 menu, with a choice of calf's head, jambon persille and coq au vin (a la carte will set you back quite a bit more). There's also the upscale Bernard Morillon , 31 rue Maufoux (tel 03.80.24.12.06; closed Mon & Tues lunch), where menus start at 180F/€27.44, and Le Gourmandin , 8 place Carnot (tel 03.80.24.07.88; closed summer Tues & Wed lunch, winter Mon & Tues lunch), with a good menu at 120F/€18.29. Les Tontons , 22 Faubourg Madeleine (tel 03.80.24.19.64; closed Sun & Mon lunch) is stylish and unpretentious, with a more inspired way of interpreting the local specialities (menus 98-250F/€14.94-38.11).


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Beaune