For accommodation in town, there are several small hotels in the backstreets. Opposite the station, HA?tel Le Moderne (tel 05.53.57.19.62, fax 05.53.61.80.50; 160-220F/a?¬24-34; closed two weeks in Oct) is a welcoming, well-kept place with a brasserie restaurant downstairs (closed Fri; menus from 63F/a?¬9.60), while Le Family , 3 rue du Dragon (tel 05.53.57.80.90, fax 05.53.57.08.00; 160-220F/a?¬24-34; restaurant from 82F/a?¬12.50), offers simple, cheerful rooms right in the town centre by the halles . For something more comfortable, try the HA?tel de Bordeaux on place Gambetta between the station and the old town (tel 05.53.57.12.83, fax 05.53.57.72.14; 300-400F/a?¬46-61; closed mid-Dec to Jan); behind an austere faA§ade it boasts a swimming pool, small garden and good restaurant (Nov-March closed Sat lunch & Sun; menus from 110F/a?¬16.77). There's also a municipal campsite , La Pelouse (tel 05.53.57.06.67), on the south bank of the river.

Apart from the hotel restaurants mentioned above, good eating options include La Blanche Hermine , a cheerful crA?perie by the market hall, for a light lunch (closed Sun & Mon); Poivre et Sel , 11 rue de l'Ancien-Pont, opposite the MusA©e du Tabac (closed Mon Oct-April; menus from 80F/a?¬12.20), for something regional; and the more refined L'Imparfait , nearby at 8 rue des Fontaines, where fish features strongly (tel 05.53.57.47.92; closed Sun & Mon Dec-April; menus from 100-180F/a?¬15.24-27.44).

If you should find yourself here in July, don't miss the magnificent food festival called La Table de Cyrano in the week of July 14. Classical music concerts also take place throughout the month, with jazz on Wednesday evenings throughout July and August.