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ChA?tillon
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If you're interested in pre-Roman France, there is one compelling reason for going to
CHA?TILLON-SUR-SEINE
: the so-called
Treasure of Vix
. Housed in the town's
museum
in the Maison Philandrier, 7 rue du Bourg, close to the centre (mid-April to mid-June & mid-Sept to mid-Nov daily except Tues 9am-noon & 2-6pm; mid-June to mid-Sept daily 9am-noon & 1.30-6pm; mid-Nov to mid-April daily except Tues 10am-noon & 2-5pm; 28F/a?¬4.26), it consists of the finds from the sixth-century BC tomb of a Celtic princess buried in a four-wheeled chariot. In addition to pieces of the chariot, the finds include staggeringly beautiful jewellery, Greek vases and Etruscan bowls. But the best on show is a gloriously simple gold tiara, actually found on the princess's head, and the largest bronze vase (
krater
) of Greek origin known from antiquity. It stands an incredible 1.64m high on triple tripod legs, and around its rim is a superbly modelled high-relief frieze depicting naked hoplites and horse-drawn chariots, with Gorgons' heads for handles. How these magnificent objects found their way to such a remote place is a mystery. One explanation lies in the fact that the village of
VIX
, 6km northwest of ChA?tillon, is the highest navigable point on the Seine, and it is thought that the Celtic chieftains who controlled it received such gifts, possibly from traders in Cornish tin shipped south from Britain via here on its way to the Adriatic, or perhaps to the bronze workers of Bibracte, the capital of the Aedui
.
The town of ChA?tillon has a few other points of interest. On the rocky bluff overlooking the steep-pitched roofs of ChA?tillon's old quarter are the ruins of a castle and the early Romanesque church of St Vorles . At its foot in a luxuriantly verdant spot, a spring swells out of the rock to join the infant Seine.
The
tourist office
is off place Marmont (daily 9am-noon & 2-6pm; Nov-March closed Wed & Sun; tel 03.80.91.13.19). There is a very welcoming
hotel
, the
Jura
, at 19 rue Docteur-Robert (tel 03.80.91.26.96, fax 03.80.91.10.52; 160-220F/a?¬24-34; closed Sun evening). Alternatives are the
Sylvia
, standing in attractive grounds at 9 av de la Gare (tel 03.80.91.02.44, fax 03.80.91.47.77; 160-300F/a?¬24-46), and the three-star
HA?tel de la CA?te d'Or
, 2 rue Charles-Ronot (tel 03.80.91.13.29, fax 03.80.91.29.15; 300-400F/a?¬46-61; closed Dec 20-Jan 31), with an excellent
restaurant
(from 95F/a?¬14.48). Other useful information
for tourists (each section contains more specific sub-sections): |
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France,
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