CafA© de Paris , 40 quai de Caligny (tel 02.33.43.12.36). Work your way up through the ranks of assiettes de fruits de mer , from the 85F/a?¬12.96 Matelot to the Amiral at 520F/a?¬79.27 for two; there's also a quick 105F/a?¬16.01 menu if you're in a hurry. Here it's the live lobsters in the fish tanks set into the windows that get the sea views, not you - but the food is excellent. Closed Sun evening, plus Mon in low season.

CafA© du ThA©A?tre , 8 place de Gaulle (tel 02.33.43.01.49). Attractive setup adjoining the theatre, with a cafA© behind plate-glass windows on the ground floor and a full-scale brasserie upstairs, arranged on three sides of the central opening. The whole ensemble offers a great sense of participating in the life of the town. The varied menus, from 79F/a?¬12.04, hold more than just seafood; the 115F/a?¬17.53 one, for example, features frogs' legs.

Le Faitout , 25 rue Tour-CarrA©e (tel 02.33.04.25.04). Basement restaurant in the shopping district that offers traditional French cuisine at very reasonable prices; a bowl of mussels can be had for under 40F/a?¬6.10, and there's a daily special for 55F/a?¬8.38. Closed Sun & Mon lunch.

Le Grandgousier , 21 rue de l'Abbaye (tel 02.33.53.19.43). The definitive French fish restaurant, well worth the walk to its unprepossessing location at the west end of town. Menus start at 75F/a?¬11.43, but this is a place to expect to spend a lot and dine well. Imagine any combination of fish, throw in a bit of caviar, a few crab claws and a leavening of foie gras, and you'll find it somewhere on the menu. Closed Mon & Fri lunchtime, plus Sun evening.