The nicest place to stay is the HA?tel des Bains , 1 rue du Griffoul (tel 05.65.34.10.89, fax 05.65.14.00.45; 160-220F/a?¬24-34; closed mid-Dec to mid-Jan), in a lovely riverside location just across from the old town. One block further back, the HA?tellerie de l'Europe at 51 allA©es Victor-Hugo (tel 05.65.34.10.16, fax 05.65.50.04.57; 160-220F/a?¬24-34; closed mid-Jan to mid-Feb), is better than it looks from the outside, with a 1930s lounge and excellent regional menus for 78-198F/a?¬11.89-30.18 (restaurant closed Sat & Sun evening out of season). If you'd rather be more central, HA?tel Champollion , on place Champollion (tel 05.65.34.04.37; 220-300F/a?¬34-46), offers a few functional but clean rooms above a popular cafA©. The tourist office can recommend chambres d'hA?te , and there's a well-equipped campsite , Les Rives du CA©lA© (tel 05.65.34.59.00; closed Oct-March), by the river just east of town, with a restaurant, shop and swimming pool, by the sports ground, where you can also rent canoes .

For eating somewhere other than a hotel restaurant, the Puce A  l'Oreille , 5 rue St-Thomas, behind place Carnot, offers some rich Quercy dishes in menus that range from 75F/a?¬11.43 to 190F/a?¬28.97 (tel 05.65.34.33.08; closed one week in early Nov, and Sun evening & Mon out of season). For a lighter meal, try the crA?perie La Chandeleur (about 50F/a?¬7.62) in rue Boutaric, off place Champollion.