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Eating and drinking
 

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Limoges has an abundance of good and not too expensive places to eat . Three places for a light lunch are the friendly Le Croquembouche crA?perie, 14 rue Haute-CitA©, near the cathedral (closed Sat, Sun & two weeks in Aug), La Louisiane , a salon de thA© on place d'Aine (closed Mon & Sun), and Le KhA©dive brasserie at 39 bd Carnot (closed Sun & three weeks in Aug). For something more substantial, join the locals round communal tables for a convivial lunch at Chez FranA§ois (closed Sun & Aug; menus 50F/a?¬7.62 & 70F/a?¬10.67) in the central market hall. For lunch or dinner the rather posh Brasserie Le Versailles , also on place d'Aine (menus from 63F/a?¬9.60), makes a good choice, but for a real treat of subtle and sophisticated cuisine (foie gras and a tagine of pigeon and dates, for example), there's no better place than L'Amphitryon , opposite the chapel of St-AurA©lien at 26 rue de la Boucherie (tel 05.55.33.36.39; closed for lunch Sat & Mon, all day Sun & two weeks in Aug); their lunch menus start at 100F/a?¬15.24 and 155F/a?¬23.63 for dinner. In the same price range and practically next door, at 20 rue de la Bouchiere, Les Petits Ventres will delight lovers of brain, brawn, tongue and other unmentionable cuts - though they also do more everyday dishes and even a vegetarian platter (tel 05.55.33.22.90; closed Sun evening & Mon).

For drinks at any time of the day, people sit out in the not very attractive place de la RA©publique; a nicer option is lively place Denis-Dussoubs, a short walk further west, where you'll find fine beers on tap at the St Martial micro-brewery (closed Sun). In more traditional vein, Le CafA© des Anciennes Majorettes de la Baule , 27 rue Haute-Vienne (closes Sun & Mon), is a relaxed place offering concerts on Friday evenings (except July & Aug), while the Lord John Pub on avenue de-Gaulle near the train station - complete with darts - is a popular hangout, with live jazz on Thursdays (except July & Aug).


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France,
Limoges