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Eating and drinking
 

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The best places to hang out for coffees and drinks are the numerous little squares scattered through the old town: place de la Maison-CarrA©e, place du MarchA©, place aux Herbes (breakfast here early at the CafA© des Beaux-Arts , as the sun is just climbing up behind the cathedral tower). Three classic NA®mes cafA©s are the NapolA©on , in boulevard Victor-Hugo, and the Grande and Petite Bourse , side by side at the back of the ArA?nes on the corner of boulevard Victor-Hugo. For later in the evening, there's the very pretty CarrA©e d'Art piano bar on rue Gaston-Bossier, near the canal and the postmodern place d'Assas.

For eating , boulevard de la LibA©ration and boulevard Amiral-Courbet harbour a stock of reasonably priced brasseries and pizzerias, and the squares too are full of possibilities. La Truye qui Filhe , 9 rue Fresque (lunchtimes only, closed Sun & Aug), is an attractive self-service, where you can eat for around 50F/a?¬7.63, while the Flan Coco , in an unbeatable courtyard setting in passage AndrA©-Malraux, 29 rue du MA©rier-d'Espagne (Mon-Fri lunch only & Sat evening, closed Aug; menus from 80F/a?¬12.20), is also good. Other decent options include the no-nonsense family-run bistro Le Chapon Fin , on place ChA?teau-Falaise (tel 04.66.67.34.73; menus from 75F/a?¬11.44), and the welcoming Paradis du Couvent , 21 rue du Grand Couvent (tel 04.66.76.26.30; closed Mon off season; menus from 55F/a?¬8.39), while the Zarzuela , 2 rue de Monnaie, serves paella and other tasty Spanish fare (tel 04.66.67.36.30; menu at 58F/a?¬8.85). For something a little more extravagant, try La Belle Respire , 12 rue de l'A©toile (tel 04.66.21.27.21; closed Wed; around 140F/a?¬21.35), which serves traditional local food, or OphA©lie , 35 rue Fresque (tel 04.61.21.00.19; dinner only, closed Sun & Mon, part Feb & Aug; menu at 140F/a?¬21.35), offering imaginative terroir dishes.


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