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Eating and drinking
 

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The best places to hang out for coffees and drinks are the numerous little squares scattered through the old town: place de la Maison-CarrAŠe, place du MarchAŠ, place aux Herbes (breakfast here early at the CafAŠ des Beaux-Arts , as the sun is just climbing up behind the cathedral tower). Three classic NAŽmes cafAŠs are the NapolAŠon , in boulevard Victor-Hugo, and the Grande and Petite Bourse , side by side at the back of the ArA?nes on the corner of boulevard Victor-Hugo. For later in the evening, there's the very pretty CarrAŠe d'Art piano bar on rue Gaston-Bossier, near the canal and the postmodern place d'Assas.

For eating , boulevard de la LibAŠration and boulevard Amiral-Courbet harbour a stock of reasonably priced brasseries and pizzerias, and the squares too are full of possibilities. La Truye qui Filhe , 9 rue Fresque (lunchtimes only, closed Sun & Aug), is an attractive self-service, where you can eat for around 50F/a?Ŧ7.63, while the Flan Coco , in an unbeatable courtyard setting in passage AndrAŠ-Malraux, 29 rue du MAŠrier-d'Espagne (Mon-Fri lunch only & Sat evening, closed Aug; menus from 80F/a?Ŧ12.20), is also good. Other decent options include the no-nonsense family-run bistro Le Chapon Fin , on place ChA?teau-Falaise (tel 04.66.67.34.73; menus from 75F/a?Ŧ11.44), and the welcoming Paradis du Couvent , 21 rue du Grand Couvent (tel 04.66.76.26.30; closed Mon off season; menus from 55F/a?Ŧ8.39), while the Zarzuela , 2 rue de Monnaie, serves paella and other tasty Spanish fare (tel 04.66.67.36.30; menu at 58F/a?Ŧ8.85). For something a little more extravagant, try La Belle Respire , 12 rue de l'AŠtoile (tel 04.66.21.27.21; closed Wed; around 140F/a?Ŧ21.35), which serves traditional local food, or OphAŠlie , 35 rue Fresque (tel 04.61.21.00.19; dinner only, closed Sun & Mon, part Feb & Aug; menu at 140F/a?Ŧ21.35), offering imaginative terroir dishes.


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