The centre is bland, and the mood is that of decline since the closure of the coal fields, but its Musee d'Art Moderne at La Terrasse, in the north of the city (daily except Tues 10am-6pm; 28F/€4.27) justifies a detour for anyone with an interest in twentieth-century art - a quite unexpected treasure house of contemporary work, both pre- and post-World War II, with a good modern American section, in which Andy Warhol and Frank Stella figure prominently, along with work by Rodin, Matisse, Leger and Ernst, and rooms filled entirely with French art, imaginatively laid out to exciting effect. La Terrasse station is served by frequent trains from St-Etienne's central station, Chateaucreux. The Musee d'Art et d'Industrie , 2 place Louis-Comte, is also good on St-Etienne's industrial background, including the development of the revolutionary Jacquard loom, but was closed for renovation at the time of writing (contact the tourist office for latest details).

The tourist office on 16 av de la Liberation (Mon-Sat 9am-7pm, Sun 10am-1pm; tel 04.77.49.39.00, www.tourisme-st-etienne.com ) is around ten minutes' walk from Chateaucreux train station along avenue D.-Rochereau. If you are forced to stay , try Hotel de la Tour , 1 rue Merciere (tel 04.77.32.28.48, fax 04.77.21.27.90; 160-220F/€24-34), Le Cheval Noir , 11 rue Francois-Gillet (tel 04.77.33.41.72, fax 04.77.37.79.19; 220-300F/€34-46), or Hotel Terminus du Forez , 29 av D.-Rochereau (tel 04.77.32.48.47, fax 04.77.34.03.30, hotel-terminus-du-forez@lhdcv.com ; 300-400F/€46-61).