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Practicalities
 

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Arriving by bus, you'll be dropped near place du FrA?ne at the gare routiA?re on place du Grand-Jardin, where you'll find the tourist office (Mon-Sat 9am-12.30pm & 2-6pm; tel 04.93.58.06.38, www.nicetourism.com ) and bike rental at Vence Motocycles.

Vence is a real town, with affordable places to stay . If you're on a tight budget, your best bet is the rather down-at-heel La Victoire , on place du Grand Jardin (tel 04.93.58.61.30, fax 04.93.58.74.68; under 160F/a?¬24); otherwise try the welcoming and peaceful La Closerie des GenA?ts , 4 impasse Maurel, off avenue M.-Maurel to the south of the old town (tel 04.93.58.33.25, fax 04.93.58.97.01; 300-400F/a?¬46-61), and Le Provence , 9 av M.-Maurel (tel 04.93.58.04.21, fax 04.93.58.35.62; 300-400F/a?¬46-61), with a pleasant garden. A little more luxury, including a pool, is available at La Villa Roseraie , 14 av Henri-Giraud (tel 04.93.58.02.20, fax 04.93.58.99.31, rvilla5536@aol.com ; 500-600F/a?¬76-91). There's a campsite , La Bergerie , 3km west off the road to Tourettes-sur-Loup (tel 04.93.58.09.36; closed mid-Oct to mid-March).

For a special, excellent-value meal , try La Farigoule , 15 av Henri-Isnard (tel 04.93.58.01.27; closed Fri & Sat lunch out of season; menus from 120F/a?¬18.30). Also good, and with menus from 130F/a?¬19.83 (only 95F/a?¬14.49 for residents), is the restaurant at La Closerie des GenA?ts hotel (see above; closed Sun evening). The fabled chef Jacques Maximin has opened a gourmet palace in Vence: imaginatively titled the Maximin Restaurant , 689 chemin de la Gaude (tel 04.93.58.90.75), it prepares exquisite fare, with the cheapest menu starting at 250F/a?¬38.13 and rising rapidly in price and indulgence. For more run-of-the-mill fare, try the astounding choice of pizzas at Le PA?cheur du Soleil , 1 place Godeau. You'll find plenty of cafA©s in the squares of Vieux Vence. La Clemenceau , on place Clemenceau, is the big cafA©-brasserie-glacier, but you might find Henry's Bar , on place de Peyra, more congenial. La RA©gence , on place du Grand-Jardin, serves excellent coffee to sip beneath its stylish parasols.


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France,
Vence