Airport enquiries tel 010/92 69 111 for Olympic flight enquiries; for all other carriers tel 010/35 30 000.

American Express Poste restante and money changing at the main branch at Ermou (1st floor), cnr Syndagma. Mail pick-up desk open in summer Mon-Fri 8am-3pm, Sat 8.30am-1.30pm; shorter weekday hours in winter. Currency exchange only at Ermou just before Nikis, south side of street. Two Amex offices are open 24hr at the airport.

Banks The normal banking hours are Mon-Thurs 8am-2pm and Fri 8am-1.30pm and just about all banks can do exchange during those hours. The National Bank of Greece at Syndagma stays open for exchange Mon-Thurs 8am-2pm & 3.30-6.30pm, Fri 8am-1.30pm & 3-6.30pm, Sat 9am-3pm & Sun 9am-1pm. The nearby, less crowded Yeniki Trapeza/General Bank cnr Ermou and Syndagma, has longer hours: Mon-Thurs 8am-6.30pm, Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 8am-2pm, closed Sun.

Bird-watching The Hellenic Ornithological Society organizes three-day excursions to major nesting and migratory areas such as the Vikos Gorge, Messolonghi wetlands and Prespa lakes. It's located at Emm. Benaki 53, Athens, tel 010/33 01 167.

Camera repair Most central at Pikopoulos, Lekka 26, off Ermou, 3rd floor and Kriton Kremnitsios, Karayeoryi Servias 7, 5th floor.

Car rental A number of companies are to be found on Leoforos Syngrou, including InterRent/EuropCar, at no. 4, tel 010/95 88 990; Holiday Autos (no. 8), Thrifty (no. 24), Eurodollar (no. 29), Just (no. 43), Avanti (no. 50), Antena (no. 52) and Autorent (no. 118); the latter three give student discounts, while Payless is just off Syngrou at Hatzikhristou 20.

Car repairs, tyres and assistance Mechanics for virtually any make are scattered around Neos Kosmos district, while spares stores congregate along and between Kallirois and Vouliagmenis. If they don't have the part, or the know-how, they'll refer you to someone who does. Tyre stores are grouped between Tritis Septemvriou 60-80 (north of Omonia). ELPA - the Greek automobile association - gives free help and information to foreign motorists at Leoforos Mesoyion 2 (northeast of Lykavitos) and at the Athens Tower in Ambelokipi. For emergency assistance call 104 (free, though you'll pay for any parts).

Dentists Free treatment at the Evangelismos Hospital, Ipsilandou 45, Kolonaki and at the Pireas Dentistry School ( Odhondoiatriko Skholio ), cnr Thivon/Livadhias, well north of the metro and public buses. For private treatment, check the ads in the Athens News or ask your embassy for addresses.

Embassies/Consulates include: Albania, Karakhristou 1 tel 010/72 34 412; Australia, Dhimitriou Soutsou 37 tel 010/64 50 405; Britain, Ploutarhou 1, Kolonaki tel 010/72 36 211; Bulgaria, Stratigou Kallari 33a, Paleo Psihiko tel 010/67 48 105, Mon-Fri 10am-noon; Canada, Ioannou Yennadhiou 4 tel 010/72 73 400; Denmark, Vas. Sofias 11 tel 010/36 08 315; Egypt, Vas. Sofias 3 tel 010/36 18 612; France, Vas. Sofias 7 tel 010/33 91 000; Germany, Karaoli Dhimitriou 3 tel 010/72 85 111; Hungary, Kalvou 16, Paleo Psihiko tel 010/67 25 337 (Mon-Fri 9am-noon); India, Kleanthous 3 tel 010/72 16 227; Ireland, Vas. Konstandinou 7 tel 010/72 32 771; Israel, Marathonodhromou 1, Paleo Psihiko tel 010/67 19 530; Italy, Sekeri 2, Kolonaki tel 010/36 17 227; Japan, Messoghion 2 tel 010/77 58 101; Netherlands, Vassileos Konstandinou 5-77 tel 010/72 39 701; New Zealand (consulate), Xenias 24, Ambelokipi tel 010/77 10 112; Norway, Vassileos Konstandinou tel 010/72 47 605; Romania, Emm. Benaki 7, Paleo Psihiko tel 010/67 28 875 (Mon-Fri 10am-noon); South Africa, Kifissias 60, Maroussi tel 010/68 06 645; Sweden, Vas. Konstandinou 7 tel 010/72 90 421; Turkey, Vas. Yeorgiou Vita 8 tel 010/72 63 000; US, Vas. Sofias 91 tel 010/72 12 951.

Emergencies Dial the tourist police tel 171 (24hr) for medical or other assistance. In a medical emergency , don't wait for an ambulance if you can travel safely - get a taxi straight to the hospital address that the tourist police gives you. If your Greek is up to it, tel 166 summons an ambulance, tel 105 gets you a rota of night-duty doctors, and tel 106 ascertains the best hospital for you to head for. Otherwise, KAT, way out in Kifissia at Nikis 2, is excellent for trauma and acute complaints if you can hold out that long - it's the designated casualty ward for Greater Athens.

Environment Greenpeace, Zoodhohou Piyis 52, Exarhia tel 010/38 40 774 (Mon-Sat 9am-4pm). Stop by if you want information, or are staying long-term in Greece and would like to participate in volunteer work and campaigns. WWF Greece, Filellinon 26, 4th floor tel 010/32 47 586 has many excellent field programmes.

Ferries Most central offices for major lines like ANEK, Strintzis, Hellenic Mediterranean, G&A and Ventouris flank Leoforos Amalias between Syndagma and Hadrian's Arch; a prominent exception is Minoan Lines, on Vasileos Konstandinou, next to the Olympic Stadium. Phone 143 for recorded timetable in Greek or pick up schedule for coming days from the OTE office. Hellas Flying Dolphin tickets are sold an hour before departure at the quay in Marina Zeas (tel 010/42 80 001), although it's wise to book tickets in advance during high season at an agent in Athens or Pireas. For Minoan high-speed catamarans to the Cyclades phone 010/75 12 356.

Gay groups Akoe Amphi, the Greek National Gay and Lesbian Organization, has an office at Zalongou 6 tel 010/77 19 221 (Mon-Fri 6-11pm).

Greek-language courses Athens Centre, Arhimidhous 48, Pangrati (tel 010/70 12 268, fax 70 18 603) is considered the best for foreigners. The Hellenic American Union, Massalias 22, is more geared to the needs of Greeks learning English.

Hiking Trekking Hellas, Filellinon 7, 3rd floor, arrange hiking tours throughout Greece. The Hellenic Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing, Milioni 5, Kolonaki (tel 010/36 45 904) can help with detailed maps for mountain paths and refuges.

Hospital clinics For minor injuries the Hellenic Red Cross, Tritis Septemvriou/Kapodhistriou, is fairly good. For inoculations , try the Vaccination Centre, Leoforos Alexandhras 196/cnr Vasilissis Sofias, Ambelokipi (Mon-Fri 8.30am-12.30pm), where most jabs are free; phone 010/64 60 493.

Internet cafes Internet cafes with full email capabilities and access to the Net have been sprouting up all over the city. Some of the more central and reliable places are: Info Cafe , branches at Ippokratous 31 tel 010/36 15 094 and cnr Botasi & Solomou, Exarhia tel 010/33 04 002; Museum Internet Cafe , Patission 46 tel 010/88 33 418; Cafe 4U , Ippokratous 44 tel 010/36 11 981; Sofokleous.com Internet Cafe , Stadhiou 5 tel 010/32 48 105; and Tafnet , Pendelis 3 cnr Mitropoleos, Plaka tel 010/32 49 282. The standard rate is about €5.70 per hour.

Laundry Numerous dry/wet cleaners will do your laundry for you, or there are coin-ops at Dhidhotou 46, Exarhia; cnr Ploutarhou & Karneadhou, Kolonaki; and Ioulianou 72-78, near the Archeological Museum.

Lost property The transport police have a lost property office ( Grafio Hamenon Andikimenon ) at Alexandras 173, 7th floor tel 010/64 21 616. Bring your passport with you.

Luggage storage Best arranged with your hotel; many places will keep the bulk of your luggage for free or a nominal amount while you head off to the islands. Pacific Ltd, Nikis 26, Syndagma (tel 010/32 41 007) has a per piece charge of €1.60 per day, €22.30 per week. It also has a storage area at the airport.

Motorbike rental Available from Motorent, whose head office is at Falirau 5, cnr Makriyanni, Koukaki tel 010/92 34 939, fax 92 34 885.

Mount Athos permits In Athens, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Akadhimias 3, in the arcade, 5th floor, is the first stop in securing a permit; office hours are Mon, Wed & Fri 11am-1pm.

Pharmacies ( farmakia ) The Marinopoulos branches on Patission and Panepistimiou are particularly good and also sell homeopathic remedies. Bakakos, on Omonia square is the largest general pharmacy in Athens and stocks just about anything. Call 107 for after-hours pharmacies (in Greek) or consult daily listings in Athens News . All pharmacies display a daily list of those open after-hours.

Phones You can phone locally from a metered phone at a periptero (kiosk), where you pay afterwards or at the airport OTE. Most periptera are phasing out their phones, however, since phone boxes that require phonecards are now quite common. The cards cost €2.80 for 100 units and €5.70 for 200 units. These are handy to have and can be used for a quick call home. The Athens OTE no longer has metered phones.

Police Dialling tel 100 gets the flying squad; for thefts, problems with hotel overcharging, etc, contact the tourist police at Dimitrakoupoulou 77, Koukaki tel 171.

Post offices ( Tahydhromia ) For ordinary letters and parcels up to 2kg, the branch on Syndagma (cnr Mitropoleos) is open Mon-Fri 7.30am-8pm, Sat 7.30am-2pm, Sun 9am-1.30pm. To send home parcels of personal effects, use the post office in the arcade between Voukourestiou and Kriezotou (Mon-Fri 7.30am-2pm) or, closer to Omonia, at Koumoundourou 29. Paper and string are supplied - you bring box and twine. "Surface/air lift" will get parcels home to North America or Europe in two weeks. For souvenirs, a branch at Nikis 37 expedites shipments and minimizes duty/declaration problems.

Poste restante The main post office for Athens is at Eolou 100, just off Omonia (Mon-Fri 7.30am-8pm, Sat 7.30am-2pm, Sun 9am-1.30pm).

Scuba diving Greece has gradually been opening up to diving although there are still restrictions because of underwater antiquities. If you want to do an introductory dive or a full PADI course, instruction and certification can be given by bilingual Greek-South African Peter Kastrinoyiannakis tel 010/98 43 851. Or contact the Scuba Diving Center of Vouliagmeni, Poseidonos at Vouliagmeni Bay tel 010/89 64 609.

Tours Most travel agencies offer a half-day tour of classical Athens including a bus drive around the highlights of the city and guided tour of the Acropolis and Museum for €30. CHAT tours, Zalongou 4, Ayia Paraskevi (tours can be booked at many of the major hotels in central Athens, even if you are not staying there), tel 010/60 72 150, has the best guides and can arrange independent itineraries as well. Tours are also offered to Sounion (€25), Delphi (one day €64, two-day tour with hotel room €87-100) and three days to Delphi and Meteora for €202. Other agencies with tours include GO Tours, Voulis 31-33, tel 010/32 25 591 and Key Tours, Kallirois 4, tel 010/92 33 166.

Train information, reservations and tickets The most central OSE offices are at Filellinon 17 (international trips only) and Sina 6 or you can call 010/52 97 002.

Travel agencies Most budget and youth/student agencies are to be found just off Syndagma, on and around Filellinon and Nikis streets. The cheapest ferry tickets to Italy are usually sold through USIT, Filellinon 1 (tel 010/32 41 884). Among other agencies; Periscope, Filellinon 22; Himalaya, Filellinon 7; and Arcturus, Apollonos 20, are worth scanning for air travel deals, as is Magic Bus, Filellinon 20 which can also do island packages.

Work/residence permits/visa extensions at the Aliens' Bureau ( Ipiresia Allodhapon ), Leoforos Alexandhras 173; open Mon-Fri 8am-1pm, but go early or you won't get seen. Also, come armed with small notes for revenue stamps, large notes for the extension fee(s), wads of passport photos, pink personalized bank receipts and plenty of patience.