fiogf49gjkf0d As you'd expect in a city that houses almost half the Greek population, Athens has the best and the most varied
restaurants
and
tavernas
in the country - and most places are sources not just of good food but of a good night out.
Starting with
breakfast
, most Athenians survive on a thimbleful of coffee, but if you need a bit more to set you up for the day, you'll easily find a bakery, yogurt shop or fruit stall. KoukA?ki is particularly good for this, with the
Nestoras Tzatsos
bakery at VeA?koA? 45, another at no. 75, and still another on pedestrianized OlymbAou, just off PlatAa KoukA?ki, offering excellent wholegrain bread and milk products. For a regular
English breakfast
, there are several options in and around PlA?ka. For a proper American or Continental breakfast, from croissants and pastries to multi-filling omelettes, head for Neon at Mitropoleos 3.
Later in the day, a host of
snack
stalls and outlets get going. If your budget is low you can fill up at them exclusively, avoiding sit-down restaurants altogether. The standard
snacks
are
souvlA?ki me pAta
(kebab in pitta bread),
tyrA?pites
(cheese pies) and
spanakA?pites
(spinach pies), along with
bougA?tses
(cream pies) and a host of other speciality pastries. There is a cluster of good
souvlA?ki
stands around ExA?rhia square, while those in the immediate vicinity of OmA?nia are best avoided. At OmA?nia square 18, however, and at several other points in the city, such as TsakA?lof 14, KolonA?ki, look out for the
Everest
chain, which does a nice line in pastries, sandwiches and ice cream and stays open past midnight.
Krinos
at EA?lou 87, an old-fashioned cafeteria operating since 1922 behind the central market, has delectable
loukoumadhes
(pastry puffs soaked in honey-citrus syrup and dusted in cinammon),
tyrA?pites
and
rizogalo
(rice pudding). There is a
Bagel CafAŠ
at KarayeA?ryi ServAas 9b, just below Syndagma, while the
ArAston
around the corner at VoulAs 10 has been famous for years for its good, inexpensive
tyropites
.
For
main meals
, PlA?ka's hills and lanes provide a pleasant evening setting, despite the aggressive touts and general tourist hype. But for good value and good quality, only a few of the quarter's restaurants and tavernas are these days worth a second glance. For quality Greek cooking, if you're staying any length of time in the city, it's better to strike out into the ring of
neighbourhoods
around: Mets, PangrA?ti, ExA?rhia/NeA?poli, KoukA?ki, A?no PetrA?lona or the more upmarket KolonA?ki. None of these is more than a half-hour's walk, or a quick trolleybus or taxi ride, from the centre - effort well repaid by more authentic menus, and often a livelier atmosphere.
Other useful information
for tourists (each section contains more specific sub-sections):
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