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Eating and drinking
 

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As you'd expect in a city that houses almost half the Greek population, Athens has the best and the most varied restaurants and tavernas in the country - and most places are sources not just of good food but of a good night out.

Starting with breakfast , most Athenians survive on a thimbleful of coffee, but if you need a bit more to set you up for the day, you'll easily find a bakery, yogurt shop or fruit stall. KoukA?ki is particularly good for this, with the Nestoras Tzatsos bakery at VeA?koA? 45, another at no. 75, and still another on pedestrianized OlymbA­ou, just off PlatA­a KoukA?ki, offering excellent wholegrain bread and milk products. For a regular English breakfast , there are several options in and around PlA?ka. For a proper American or Continental breakfast, from croissants and pastries to multi-filling omelettes, head for Neon at Mitropoleos 3.

Later in the day, a host of snack stalls and outlets get going. If your budget is low you can fill up at them exclusively, avoiding sit-down restaurants altogether. The standard snacks are souvlA?ki me pA­ta (kebab in pitta bread), tyrA?pites (cheese pies) and spanakA?pites (spinach pies), along with bougA?tses (cream pies) and a host of other speciality pastries. There is a cluster of good souvlA?ki stands around ExA?rhia square, while those in the immediate vicinity of OmA?nia are best avoided. At OmA?nia square 18, however, and at several other points in the city, such as TsakA?lof 14, KolonA?ki, look out for the Everest chain, which does a nice line in pastries, sandwiches and ice cream and stays open past midnight.

Krinos at EA?lou 87, an old-fashioned cafeteria operating since 1922 behind the central market, has delectable loukoumadhes (pastry puffs soaked in honey-citrus syrup and dusted in cinammon), tyrA?pites and rizogalo (rice pudding). There is a Bagel CafAŠ at KarayeA?ryi ServA­as 9b, just below Syndagma, while the ArA­ston around the corner at VoulA­s 10 has been famous for years for its good, inexpensive tyropites .

For main meals , PlA?ka's hills and lanes provide a pleasant evening setting, despite the aggressive touts and general tourist hype. But for good value and good quality, only a few of the quarter's restaurants and tavernas are these days worth a second glance. For quality Greek cooking, if you're staying any length of time in the city, it's better to strike out into the ring of neighbourhoods around: Mets, PangrA?ti, ExA?rhia/NeA?poli, KoukA?ki, A?no PetrA?lona or the more upmarket KolonA?ki. None of these is more than a half-hour's walk, or a quick trolleybus or taxi ride, from the centre - effort well repaid by more authentic menus, and often a livelier atmosphere.


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